Wahoo KICKR Bike In-Depth Review

At $3,500 the Wahoo KICKR Bike is Wahoo’s most expensive product. And one of the most expensive indoor training products you can buy. It’s also the company’s first go at creating not just an indoor bike, but actually an entirely different technological way of doing resistance within a ‘trainer’. While at first glance you may assume this is basically just a KICKR+CLIMB melded together on steroids, the reality is that technologically it’s vastly different internally.

The flywheel is a new electromagnetic design that’s akin to what Tacx has used in their NEO series for years, while the CLIMB portion no longer uses a belt, but is fully linear actuator driven. Not to mention creating an entirely flexible shifting system that can replicate your outdoor bike, from SRAM to Shimano to Campagnolo. All while trying to adhere to the normal industry standards around communicating with apps on ANT+ & Bluetooth Smart.

While the KICKR Bike just started landing in people’s homes a week or two ago, I’ve been riding the Wahoo KICKR Bike for about two and a half months. I’ve got plenty of rides on it, as have numerous visitors to the DCR Cave during that time period. Be it people at the open house to GPLAMA and DesFit, not to mention my wife… all of whom have put mileage on it. So plenty of time to find the good, the bad, and maybe a bit of ugly.

As usual, once I’m done here shortly with this media loaner I’ll get it all boxed up, tumbled down the stairs, and pushed out the door back to Wahoo. Just the way I roll. If you find this review useful, feel free to hit up the links at the end of the post to help support the site. With that – onwards!

(Note: At present Wahoo is only taking orders for bikes to the North American market. The company has previously said they expect to start on the European market in early 2020, however, given the delays with only a handful of bikes just recently delivered to the US market, I don’t expect we’ll see European sales come online anytime soon. Wahoo has also ceased taking new orders as well until they can make some progress on the huge pile of existing backorders. Due to the weight and size of these products, virtually all distribution from Asia occurs via oceanic cargo ship – which compounds the delays.)

Unboxing & Setup:

Someday I’ll get around to editing the funny VLOG-style video I shot getting this bike out of the clutches of FedEx and the Dutch customs authority. But what you need to know is that I got it out. That’s all that matters here! And then, like any true resident of the Netherlands, I pedaled it home via bike from the airport: Smart bike atop cargo bike, held only by a daisy chain of bungee cords.

Once back in the DCR Cave, it was time to unbox it. Albeit, a job partially done by the customs authority. The entire top of the box lifts off, revealing the contents inside. The main portion of the bike is pre-assembled, leaving you a box of parts and then a secondary support piece below the flywheel:

Here’s a look inside that box of parts:

And here’s the contents spread out, which includes the handlebars, seat post, power cable, a spare set of pedals you’ll never use unless you host an Open House, as well as the bike feet/frame support posts. Oh, and the manual.

And a quick close-up gallery of those pieces:

Assembly is pretty straightforward. First, you’ll attach the legs:

Then, you’ll attach the handlebars – just as you would on a real bike:


Don’t forget to plug in the two cables to the ports at the base of the front stem:

Then take the seat-post and stuff that in the hole:


While this seat-post does have a special ruler on the back of it, you can actually swap it out for any seat-post of your liking. This allows you to have two saddles (perhaps for two family members) and easily swap them. I suspect some day Wahoo will also offer secondary seat posts as accessories in an online store or something.

Then there’s this giant-ass warning card:

It asks to install these two washers:

The point of these washers is to keep your pedals (after going through the crank arm hole) from hitting the frame of the bike:

Go ahead and plug your bike in:

Oh, wait, don’t forget to double-check your feet levelers are in a happy spot so you don’t get any undesirable wobble from the base:

Then send out the Roomba to clean-up the mess you’ve made:

With that, we’re ready to cover some basics before we start into the whole bike fit bit.

The Basics:

For this section I’ll cover some of the basics of the hardware, before we get into setup of rider fit as well as things like gearing and shifting, plus app connectivity. All of which are detailed in separate sections.

We’re going to start where all things start: The wall.

Yup, your power outlet. Like most smart trainers, this bike needs power to function, and comes with a beast of a power block (and a pile of appropriate international wall connectors). Here’s a close look at the power brick specs:

Once you’ve got it plugged in, you’re pretty much ready to use it. You’ll notice that the small display near the front of the bike is lit up. This display shows your current gearing, with the most forward number indicating your virtual chainring, while the rear number indicates your rear cassette:

Below that little display is a single 2 AMP USB port. You can use it to plug something in, though there isn’t really a great place to put whatever you plugged in:

Next to that are two ports, these are where you (should have) plugged in your shifters. There’s an extra port though for auxiliary accessories. That might be triathlon bar shifters some day, or it could be some sort of other accessory. Either way, the expandability is there. in fact, the reason you see the cables as all in disarray as that Wahoo wanted people to be able to make any adjustments in size/fit and not have to deal with re-doing the cabling. While I do appreciate that sentiment, I think they could have done a bit more cleanup there.

That display though will also show your current incline using the integrated CLIMB functionality, which tilts the bike up and down. And you can manually control the CLIMB’s functionality by pressing the two buttons on the left side.

The CLIMB can recreate a +20% incline and a –15% decline. And it’s a bit different than the existing KICKR CLIMB, because in the case of the KICKR CLIMB it replicated that by raising and lowering your front fork. Whereas here it’s actually tilting the entire bike, so the pivot point is in the center of the bike (as happens on a real hill), versus just the front. That means you feel the downwards a bit more since it’s effectively raising your seat too. Here, this video snippet demonstrates it well:

(I had to very slightly tweak the playback speeds since the KICKR CLIMB and KICKR Bike have different specs, so they’d start/end at the same time)

Note though that certain bike fit positions will max out the CLIMB’s downwards incline capabilities to a lesser number (such as –10%). Also note that even when you set Zwift to 100% trainer difficulty, for some bizarre reason Zwift still halves the downhill gradient for the CLIMB position. So a 10% decline becomes a 5% decline, which means you don’t really feel it.  Other apps like FulGaz don’t have this artificial limitation, and hopefully it’s something that Zwift will eventually fix (it was there on the KICKR CLIMB too).

Next, there’s the flywheel, which is the big round thing at the back of the bike. That’s where the inertia comes from that replicates the feel on the bike. It’s somewhat quiet, though it is louder than the Tacx Bike. It can replicate downhills too by spinning the flywheel forward, making it feel like you’re coasting down a hill, based on the information Zwift sends it. The overall road inertia feel is quite good on the KICKR Bike.

Now I said ‘somewhat quiet’ above, because this bike is like a jungle when it comes to making sounds. Ya never quite know what it’s gonna come up with next. But, I’ll roughly categorize them here:

A) Regular riding: For normal riding there’s a constant hum that’s not too bothersome, roughly akin to a fan on low
B) Riding at certain cadences: If at 63-64RPM you’ll hear a metal-sounding resonance that increases in volume the longer you stay at that RPM (to a surprisingly loud level). Another range seems to exist in the 78-79 RPM too, albeit more of a high pitched sound. Wahoo says the resonance is normal.
C) Harder efforts/sprints: With certain fit positions/movements, I’ve found this specific bike creaks a lot – like a bed when doing the horizontal shuffle. This seems to happen mostly at higher wattages and harder efforts, but not always. I listened to DesFit for nearly an hour the other day riding it, and he managed to creak the bed bike the entire time. I didn’t ask if he always rides like that, but he seemed to enjoy himself.

Wahoo believes the creaking is fixed on newer bikes, and have offered to send a newer bike over to see if that solves it. I’m going to guess it will be solved initially, but I’m curious to see how it handles longer term. There’s no question that as more people have gotten more riding time on this specific unit, it’s gotten louder and louder.

Now, for normal riding, here’s a comparison between the three bikes on the market. Again – this is exclusive of any funky sounds:

Now, to wrap up this section I’ve got a quick little summary of things I do and don’t like about the bike from a basics standpoint. I hesitate to call this a pros and cons list, though that’s more or less what it is. I’m sticking it here in the middle of the review so people that just skip to the end without reading will miss it (and thus hopefully read the whole review to make an informed decision – nuance matters). I’ll ignore any accuracy likes/dislikes in this section and keep it more on practical things, also ignoring spec-specific things too. Basically, this is more of a practical list of likes/dislikes:

Things I really like:

– The integration with CLIMB is awesome, feels better than KICKR+CLIMB (due to angles)
– The road feel inertia is great, especially ramping up
– The app for initial bike setup is awesome
– The app for configuration of gearing/shifting is even more awesome
– The actual execution of the shifters is the best in the industry

Things I really dislike:

– How the eff is there no place to put your phone/tablet/M&Ms/etc?
– You put a USB port there for what purpose if there’s no place to stash/connect anything?
– The gearing/incline display is in a useless position. Who looks at their crotch while riding?
– The front-end wiring looks ugly (even if it’s for extendibility)
– Single water bottle cage

You’ll see the same list formatting on all my indoor bike reviews. With that, onto the details of rider setup, and then shifting

Bike & Rider Fit Setup:

Now that the KICKR bike is built, it’s time to get it fit to you. Later on in the post I talk about multi-user considerations and swapping positions. The KICKR Bike offers plenty of adjustability, which, depending on the width of your crotch, should cover virtually every possible scenario. Don’t worry, I’ll get back to your crotch again later. Or, my crotch as it may be.

At a glance, you can adjust the bike in these five ways (plus more if you include loosening the handlebars and changing the orientation there):

1) Saddle height (up/down)
2) Saddle position (forward/back)
3) Handlebar height (up/down)
4) Handlebar position (forward/back)
5) Stand-over height adjustment (up/down)

In the case of the KICKR Bike, the seat height is actually two metrics blended together: Stand over height + Saddle height.

Here’s a quick gallery of all of those measurement bits. One odd quirk that both Wahoo and Tacx have duplicated is only putting the rulers on one side of the bike. Heck, there’s even grooves in there for both sides. Seriously folks, just do both sides – I’ll pay you an extra $1 if you really want to apply the stickers on both sides.

To adjust any given bit you’ll simply slide open the lever for that particular component. It’s quick and easy and works really well:


The only issue I’ve seen with this is that the manufacturing tolerances around the seat-post assembly aren’t great. In particular of the back seat post (horizontal movement), where when extended out towards the max there’s easily 1-2mm of play there. Wahoo says this is by design.

Wahoo offers an app integrated fit guide, and it’s incredibly detailed, all driven via an app. You’ve got three options for how to set up the fit:

A) Take a photo of your bike, and with a tiny bit of assistance it’ll automatically replicate the sizing for the KICKR Bike
B) Utilize a well-known bike fit measurement system from GURU Fit System, Retul Fit, and Trek Precision Fit, which will give you the right measurements for the KICKR Bike
C) Enter in your height and inseam, as well as preferred position (relaxed/endurance/race) and it’ll give you the KICKR Bike measurements

To get started, you’ll crack open the Wahoo App, and then choose the FIT Method that you prefer. For example, if you choose the Retul Fit option, it’ll ask you for those five specific metrics, and then you press continue:


After which it’ll give you the specific five measurements you should configure the KICKR Bike for.


Next, if you’ve got a bike that’s already configured, you can take a picture of it:


It’ll show you how to line things up:


And then you go around and place dots on various parts:


Afterwards you’ll measure the distance between the two wheels, and input it into the app. In theory, it gives you the measurements, but somehow that didn’t quite work for me (nor did a do-over). Perhaps I need to get a better bike fit…


And finally for the last FIT method, you can enter in your specific height and inseam and it’ll spit out the correct sizing numbers as well:


And then here’s all the data and instructions it’ll give you back – which was incredibly close to my normal bike fit:

Either way, beyond my specific photo-sizing issue issue, it’s the type of nuanced well thought through detail we frankly don’t see a lot of in the sports tech space.

Of course, sizing it to you is going to vary a bit based on your exact fit. And there’s no better example of that than the ‘thigh gap’ issue I talked about on Twitter recently. Which is that some of these bikes have rather large top-tubes, as such, you’ll rub your thighs against it while riding. Here’s an example of the slight bit of rub on the KICKR Bike:

I rub on both the KICKR Bike and Tacx Bike, but not on the Wattbike Atom. That’s because the Wattbike Atom frame is super thin compared to the beastly Wahoo & Tacx Bikes.

But it’s not entirely black and white. See, while the Tacx Bike is thick, it only extends below the saddle, so for some people they’ll never touch at all because their legs extend forward beyond that point. Whereas on the KICKR Bike there’s no escaping it – that’s the width all the way across. The only hope you have there is that your thighs gap enough by the time your leg length cross over the top-tube.

In some cases you might rub more when lazy pedaling, and less when your legs are working harder and more extended. Now, the brute-force way of determining whether or not you’d rub is to simply take out a piece of cardboard and cut it to the measurement above, and then stick it on your bike and see if you hit it a bunch.

While I do rub on both the KICKR Bike & Tacx Bike, I’ve gotten used to it and it doesn’t bother me appreciably. It seems to impact me more when I’m easy pedaling than pedaling hard. Each person will be different here depending on your fit. For lack of anywhere else to stick it, the Q-Factor on the Wahoo bike is 150mm (Q-Factor is basically the distance between your feet, measured to the point the pedal touches the crank arms), which is about 10mm more than my road bike (but 10mm less than the Wattbike Atom). As I’ve said many times before, I think the debate around Q-Factor is hilariously overthought. After all, people swap between mountain bikes and road bikes throughout the season (or even the week) without any issue, which have dramatically different Q-Factors.

Next we’ve got crank length, which is adjustable to the following settings: 165/167.5/170/172.5/175mm. To adjust the crank length you want you simply put your pedals into the appropriate hole of this crazy 5-holed crank-arm design:

It may look a bit…bear-paw…but, practically speaking it works great. I like simple solutions, and this nails it.

So what about triathletes? The KICKR Bike does not include any aerobars, but you can add your own. There are no practical limitations here, as it’s just like a normal road-bike handlebar with a normal front stem. Attach your bars, and go forth riding. Again, down the road Wahoo says they’re going to offer some sort of integrated aerobar accessory kit, but there’s no pricing/availability/pictures of that at this time. Here’s my RedShift aerobars attached to the KICKR Bike:

Beyond the aerobar attachment, all other TT/triathlon-type aspects would really fall more under the rest of the FIT section above. Given the flexibility here, I imagine most folks will have no issues finding their right fit here.

Finally – what about multi-user scenarios? Well, not today. But soon.

Wahoo’s working on the ability to create multiple bike profiles with the app. The idea being that you can customize the exact gearing and shifting setup you want, and then label them. For example perhaps one for a general road bike setup, another geared more towards climbing, TT, etc… But that doesn’t directly solve the multi-user scenario.

Instead, Wahoo says that the plan is that once any user connects to the bike with the app on their own phone, it’ll push down that configuration to the Wahoo bike, inclusive of the rider’s weight (which is super important for correct road feel). That should roughly work, though I’d love to see a bit more thinking around that concept. Since the KICKR Bike lacks a meaningful display, there’s no way to know (or even confirm) it’s got the correct rider profile details. What’d be an interesting solution for that is to update the name of the bike as broadcast over BLE & ANT+, so that when you paired it Zwift it’d say “Ray’s KICKR Bike – TT” or “Bobbie’s KICKR Bike – Road”. Or perhaps that equation is driven more from the apps like Zwift itself – able to change all these settings based on who is logged in.

Still, it’s a general problem that hasn’t really been solved for the industry yet, but with Zwift looking to build their own bike – it’s something that’ll need to get solved sooner or later.

Shifting, Braking, and Steering:

There’s no bike on the market, indoor or outdoor, that has nailed shifting and gearing as well as the KICKR Bike. It’s not that it feels better than an outdoor bike per se, but rather that you’ve got endless customization of the shifters. Want to ride eTAP? No problem – done. Switch it up tomorrow for Shimano Di2? Sure. How about go all Italian with Campagnolo? Sì.

And that’s before we even talk things like chainring and cassette customization – or the planned upcoming multiple bike profiles.

But stepping back a second – the purpose of adjustability to shifting in an indoor bike may not seem obvious at first. But this bike is replacing your outdoor bike, and on that bike you’ve got a specific gearing setup you’re used to. Be it the shifters type (such as Di2), or having a different gearing combination (like a compact crankset). If you’re going to do an app with lots of climbing, you’ll want to replicate that compact crankset (or, change into such a crankset).

And while the software side of the Wahoo bike’s shifting realm is by far the star of the show for the entire bike, it’s equally as much the actual hardware. You’ll find these shifters feel like real outdoor shifters – this seemingly perfect blend of SRAM and Shimano shifters, all with some semi-hidden buttons on the insides that could be used for later functions. You can even squeeze the brakes if you’re bored (it won’t immediately stop your avatar in Zwift though).

First, let’s start on the app. The Wahoo bike supports the ability to configure your gearing via Wahoo’s app. It allows you to specify 9/10/11/12 speed cassettes, and then individually choose the range of the cogs in the cassette. For the front chainring you can choose 1/2/3 chainrings, and the sizes of each. Note that functionally speaking what you see below is virtually identical to what Tacx does on their bike, but practically speaking it’s faster/easier to configure than Tacx.

Next, there’s the configuration of the shifters themselves. It’s here where you can specify Shimano (Di2 or Mechanical), SRAM eTAP, SRAM Mechanical, or Campagnolo.  Once you select a given shifting type there’s also a little menu that explains them all, in case you aren’t familiar. You can’t do any of the complicated synchro-shift type stuff at this point – but I suppose there’s always something for down the road – it would be a mere software update.

Again, the shifting setup is the star of the show for the Wahoo bike – I can’t overstate that enough here.  And here’s how the shifters look, which mirror that of real bike shifters:

Now, the one downside of the Wahoo shifting system is that the display is in a really bad place. As I talked about elsewhere it’s just not good location-wise, since you’re always Chris Froomeing trying to see it.

Atop that, Zwift isn’t displaying the shift data yet from the Wahoo bike (only the Wattbike Atom at this time). For Tacx bikes, it’s not as big an issue because you can see it on the display in front of you. Now, Wahoo actually does send this information over to Zwift in their data stream. In fact, FulGaz displays it today already:

It’s worth noting that none of the indoor bikes today (including wahoo) support the ANT+ Shifting Profile at this time. While not a big though, it’d be cool if that data was transmitted and then recorded by apps or bike computers, just like it is on a real bike. This really shouldn’t be that hard and I’ve yet to think (or hear of) any technical blocker here. Wahoo already supports this ANT+ profile in their ELEMENT/BOLT/ROAM bike computers.

So what about steering? Well, physically it’s there – but there’s nothing hooked up yet software-wise. Like other bikes on the market, the KICKR Bike has two steering buttons, one per side, on the inside of the handlebars in almost the same spot as you’d find additional remote buttons on a normal set of Di2 handlebars. For braking, they’ve got levers identical to outside road bike levers that have a fairly similar feel to a real road bike.

When you hold the brake levers, it’ll stop the flywheel at the back of the bike. But it won’t actually stop your avatar in Zwift immediately. And in fact, if you try and pedal while holding the brakes, it’ll actually make your avatar go faster.

The reason is that Zwift is looking at power output to drive your avatar’s speed. So when you apply the brakes, it simply stops the flywheel – it doesn’t control the speed within Zwift (and Zwift has no concept of integrated braking yet). And extending that further, if you apply the brakes while pedaling, that (understandably) spikes your power, which in this power-driven world means it actually makes you faster (versus in the real-world you’d still slow down).

Ultimately, for all these companies – these features are really on Zwift to implement. The gearing shifting data is already there and documented/broadcasted by Wahoo (as seen, FulGaz has implemented it). Zwift has already implemented a variant of this for the Wattbike Atom on certain platforms. But nobody is using any standards here, which is somewhat ironic because there actually is a gear shifting standard, so it’s unclear to me why the indoor bike and app companies just wouldn’t use that (and funnel it over BLE, akin to what Tacx did back in the early days of ANT+ FE-C over Bluetooth Smart).

Still, I’m going to continue to give Zwift a hard time on this.  They’re the industry leader here on the trainer app side, but lack any sort of cohesive hardware integration team or even a single individual that ensures these sort of features are lit up when companies bring them to market (at the request of Zwift no less). I could write an entire novel on all the Zwift hardware integration stumbles there…and that’s just from this year alone.

Nonetheless – the good news for Wahoo is that once Zwift decides to do something about it, it’s not hard for Wahoo to implement it. Hopefully for people spending $3,500 for this bike – that’s sooner rather than later.

Apps Compatibility:

The Wahoo Bike follows some but not all of the industry norms you’d expect from most trainers these days.  As you probably know, apps like Zwift, TrainerRoad, SufferFest, Rouvy, FulGaz, Kinomap and many more all support most of these industry standards, making it easy to use whatever app you’d like.  If trainers or apps don’t support these standards, then it makes it far more difficult for you as the end user. And while I used the term ‘most’, the reality is that the leftover bits not yet following the industry standards (Bluetooth Smart FTMS) are handled by most apps supporting Wahoo’s own Bluetooth Smart protocols anyways (and Wahoo says early 2020 they’ll implement FTMS).

With the latest firmware, the Wahoo Bike transmits data on both ANT+ & Bluetooth Smart as well, allowing interactive resistance control across both ANT+ & Bluetooth Smart.  By applying resistance control, apps can simulate climbs as well as set specific wattage targets.

To be specific, the Tacx Bike supports the following protocol transmission standards:

ANT+ FE-C Trainer Control: This is for controlling the trainer via ANT+ from apps and head units. Read tons about it here.
Bluetooth Smart Wahoo Trainer Control: This is Wahoo’s private method of controlling the trainer. At this point it does NOT yet support FTMS, but that switch-over is planned in early 2020 according to Wahoo last week. I suspect the issue is the same as Tacx not supporting it, in that the FTMS standard doesn’t support a way to configure the rider’s weight, which is important for correctly applying the ride feel.

Note: At this time (Dec 2019) the KICKR Bike does *NOT* support transmission of standard ANT+ or Bluetooth Smart power meter data streams, like all past Wahoo trainers. The company says this is coming shortly – perhaps as soon as the end of this year, but it may slide into early next year. The ramifications of this are most apparent if you use a watch or head unit to record your training data for training load/recovery purposes. That’s not available at this time.

The Wahoo bike includes cadence data for any of the connections, so that data is baked into the power meter and trainer control streams. When you go to pair an app to the KICKR Bike you’ll see the cadence channel shown as well:


It’s these same standards that also allow you to connect via head units too. For example the Wahoo ELEMNT/BOLT as well as Garmin Edge series support ANT+ FE-C for trainer control (or Wahoo Bluetooth Smart trainer control), so you can re-ride outdoor rides straight from your bike head unit to your trainer. But you can’t yet pair it as a regular power meter, only a trainer.

(In case things are still a bit confusing: You can connect to the trainer via ANT+ FE-C, but just not as a regular power meter. Meaning if you want to re-ride an outdoor ride on your Wahoo/Garmin unit, no problems. But if you want to do a Zwift ride and then just record a copy of your data to your Garmin for training load/recovery purposes, that’s not yet possible like it is on every other trainer/bike in the market.)

For me, in my testing, I used Zwift and TrainerRoad as my two main apps (which are the two main apps I use personally). In the case of Zwift, I used it in regular riding mode (non-workout mode, aka SIM mode), whereas in the case of TrainerRoad I used it in a structured workout mode. I dig into the nuances of these both within the power accuracy section.

In any case, here in TrainerRoad using Bluetooth Smart on an iPad:


What you may notice though is that the calibration option is actually present. In reality, if you try using it, it’ll fail. This is by design, the Wahoo KICKR Bike doesn’t require any calibration (nor does it support it) – that’s identical to how the Tacx NEO & NEO Bike series works.

Beyond all of the gearing/shifting features we discussed in the app, as well as the rider fit options, there’s not much else app-wise for the KICKR Bike. Except firmware updates of course. These usually just take a couple minutes. Quick and easy.


Note that the Wahoo KICKR Bike does have downhill drive simulation, which means that as you go down a hill it’ll drive the flywheel forward so it feels like you’re going down a hill. I’d say this is OK, but it’s not quite as realistic a feel as Tacx’s. Something about the speed doesn’t quite feel right. Though inversely, I feel like Wahoo’s flywheel realism while you’re pedaling and specifically accelerations feels slightly more realistic than Tacx’s.

On the flip side, Tacx has their ‘road feel’ on the NEO & NEO Bike, which simulates cobblestones and such. Wahoo could look to implement that as well in the KICKR Bike (assuming no patent issues from Tacx). That feature works by stuttering the flywheel at just the right frequency (we’re talking milliseconds here) to replicate the different road conditions/patterns.

Remember, this is a very different technology than on a typical Wahoo KICKR. This is an electromagnetic flywheel (essentially the same as the Tacx NEO series), versus a more traditional flywheel found on a Wahoo KICKR trainer. That’s the direction I suspect you’ll see the entire industry take for mid to higher-end trainers, going into 2020. The point being the potential for how Wahoo decides to tweak/leverage that is just beginning.

Power Accuracy Analysis:

As usual, I put the bike up against a number of power meters to see how well it handled everything from resistance control accuracy, to speed of change, to any other weird quirks along the way. In the case of indoor bikes it’s a bit more tricky to have 2-3 other power meters, since you typically can’t swap out the crankset or rear hubs. So you have to rely upon other power meter pedals.

No problem, I’ve got plenty of those. I’ve set up the bike in three different configurations over the past few months:

Config 1: With Garmin Vector 3 pedals
Config 2: With Favero Assioma Duo pedals

Within this timeframe I’ve also seen multiple firmware versions, with most of the data below from either the most recent or version prior to it. The most recent firmware version adds in the ability to turn off ERG mode smoothing, which gives us more granularity for measuring ERG mode power accuracy.

We’re going to start this parade with today’s ride actually, a Zwift Race. Or, well, it was supposed to be a race until the Zwift Apple TV app froze as the starting line clock struck zero. Again. So, I just rode instead. In any case, here’s that data from a high level against the Favero Assioma pedals:

For the purposes of the above chart, I applied a 10-second smoothing factor simply so you can see through the haze of constant shifts in power as I bridged various groups. Here, this is what it looks like for just a small couple minute section without smoothing:

It is actually really quite close – with the only differences being at the single-second level (meaning, second to second there might be variances due to recording/transmission timing rates). If we smooth the above chart to a 5-second rolling average, here’s what it looks like:

There’s some very slight shifts in who has a higher power versus the other – usually within a couple watts, which is within the spec of both units. Even on a bike like this there’s still going to be some very slight drivetrain losses. So in theory the Favero Assioma pedals should be marginally higher than the KICKR Bike power.

Here’s a look at a casual sprint. For sprint closeness – this is actually astoundingly close. Very rarely do I see two power meters/trainers this close when we’re talking 1-second power (the below is not smoothed), let alone at these power levels.

And cadence accuracy? It seems incredibly close to the Favero Assioma – albeit, always 2 RPM offset (lower):

Whereas on another ride comparing against the Vector 3 pedals, it’s precisely the same:

So let’s shift to that other ride. This one another Zwift ride up/around the Volcano – a race I believe. This set is compared against the Garmin Vector 3 pedals. Here’s that data set:

Again, this is so silly close it’s barely worth analyzing. The only times it isn’t close are where I’m having some sort of ANT+ drop issue on the head unit connected to the Vector pedals. It might be the pedals, though I saw some other drops this week on other devices too – so my guess was something was interfering with ANT+ signals in the DCR Cave that week from a WiFi standpoint. When it happens, it seems to happen in rashes.

In any case, here’s a random snippet – as you can see, crazy close with zero smoothing applied:

Ok, because the Zwift simulation mode bits are boring, let’s shake things up a bit and head over to TrainerRoad. In this case I’m using ERG mode (the fact that I’m using TrainerRoad is irrelevant here from an accuracy standpoint – it behaves identically within Zwift). We’re gonna start with my famed 30×30 test. I do this for *every single* trainer I test, and the KICKR Bike is no exception. It’s simply a repetitive interval of 30 seconds hard, 30 seconds easy. This tests how quick the trainer responds (or bike, in this case), and how accurately it does so.

Not only am I testing for underlying power accuracy, but also the ability to hit a given wattage target correctly within a specified timeframe. Typically I target about 2-4 seconds to ramp up from approx. 150w to approx. 400-430w. Note this is with the latest firmware that now disables ERG mode smoothing (so we can see the actual power info):

Here’s the workout and results from TrainerRoad:


That’s not terribly ideal.

What’s not ideal you ask? This isn’t ideal:

It’s overshooting the intervals (and the undershooting the exits of intervals). My cadence on these was crazy constant. Like, robotically perfectly constant. Yet, the trainer has a really hard time holding the correct initial setpoint wattage for the first 1-3 seconds. That’s 40 watts over (468w vs 428w). That’s basically the *exact* same issue I saw with the NEO 2T and Tacx NEO Bike when they first launched (since solved on the NEO 2T, and slightly less pronounced of an issue on the NEO Bike, at least in the above test…more in a second).

In the case of Tacx, their issue was that their flywheel was so powerful they hadn’t refined that swing in power yet. A brute that hadn’t yet learned finesse. Now, before I show it getting worse, let’s talk about the responsiveness – did it get to the set point (even if correct) efficiently?

Yes it did. And it did so smoothly too (smoother than the beast of a Tacx Bike). It felt right. So good work there, just gotta stick the landing next time.

And what about the actual power meter accuracy side of the house? Well, that’s pretty good too. The Favero Assioma and Wahoo KICKR Bike are very very close once I apply a 3-second smoothing to take care of any recording latency type issues. Here’s the data:

So ok, power accuracy is fine. And responsiveness is fine. But what if I try a different ERG mode workout?

Thus I pulled up Adams, which has a bit longer sustained efforts.

Holy fuzz line balls Batman!

Now – at this point I’m sure a bunch of Wahoo employees are saying:

“But DCR, you disabled ERG mode smoothing, of course it’ll be fuzzy! That’s why we wanted to keep you from disabling it!”

And sure, that’s correct, but that’s also missing the point. It shouldn’t look like this. Period. It doesn’t for *any* other trainer or bike I test. More work is clearly needed here to find the right balance. But, that’s actually not what I’m concerned about.

Instead, it’s these spikes at the start and end of every interval that are the problem:

Yes folks, that’s 130w over the actual set point. Mind you, the others aren’t magically better. They’re only better by comparison. The others range from 50w to 75w over the set point.

And, lest you think this is just an ‘ERG Mode Smoothing’ setpoint thing, check out the underlying data:

The Favero Assioma is showing the exact same power. Meaning – my legs really are having to put out more than 100w higher than what the workout specified. Coach Chad of TrainerRoad (or my own Coach Alan) would be displeased at this. But on the bright side, at least the bike is accurate.

Note that I’m seeing this behavior on the latest firmware across all ERG mode workouts, be it TrainerRoad or Zwift.

Ultimately from a power accuracy standpoint though, the KICKR Bike seems pretty much spot-on within all my tests. However, folks on TrainerRoad (or Zwift) will at this point notice the overshooting and undershooting of the unit in the first few seconds of any structured ERG mode workout. While the actual power is accurate, the KICKR Bike is not correctly hitting the right target outputs – usually by 50-75w high, but as high as 125w.

As noted, this is essentially the same issue as seen by Tacx with their new NEO 2T/Tacx Bike flywheel design. And I suspect it’s gonna take Wahoo a bit of time as well to sort out their issues there too. This is more noticeable on shorter intervals of higher intensity than longer ones. On the bright side, at least the power itself is accurate – even if the set point isn’t. But again, I suspect they’ll be able to sort this out.

Note: All of the charts in these accuracy sections were created using the DCR Analyzer tool.  It allows you to compare power meters/trainers, heart rate, cadence, speed/pace, GPS tracks and plenty more. You can use it as well for your own gadget comparisons, more details here.)

Indoor Smart Bike Comparisons:

Here’s a complete spec comparison between the three bikes. Though, many of the nuances of above aren’t necessarily captured in the tables below. Instead, these tables focus on the major specs between them. Still, they’re good for a quick glance. I’ve also included the new Stages Bike in there, though that won’t ship till Q1 2020.

Again, just go visit my massive shoot-out post for a more detailed dive between them.

Function/FeatureWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Copyright DC Rainmaker - Updated March 1st, 2020 @ 2:25 pmNew Window
Price for trainer$3,499$3,199~$2,500USD$2,600-$2,800USD
Trainer TypeIndoor BikeIndoor BikeIndoor BikeIndoor Bike
Available today (for sale)YesYesYesQ1 2020
Availability regionsLimited InitiallyGlobalUK/South Africa/Australia/Scandinavia/USAGlobal
Wired or Wireless data transmission/controlWirelessWirelessWirelessWireless
Power cord requiredYesNoYesYes
Flywheel weight13bs/5.9kgsSimulated/Virtual 125KG9.28KG/20.4lbs50lbs
ResistanceWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Can electronically control resistance (i.e. 200w)YesYesYesYes
Includes motor to drive speed (simulate downhill)YesYesNoNo (but kinda)
Maximum wattage capability2,200w @ 40KPH2,200w @ 40KPH2,000w3,000w
Maximum simulated hill incline20% (and -15% downhill)25%25%
FeaturesWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Ability to update unit firmwareYesYesYesYes
Measures/Estimates Left/Right PowerNoYesYesYes (actually measured independently)
Can rise/lower bike or portion thereofYesNoNoNo
Can directionally steer trainer (left/right)Yes (with compatible apps)YES (WITH COMPATIBLE APPS)NoYes (with compatible apps)
Can rock side to side (significantly)NoNoNoNo
Can simulate road patterns/shaking (i.e. cobblestones)NoYesNoNo
AccuracyWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Includes temperature compensationYesN/AYesYes
Support rolldown procedure (for wheel based)N/AN/ANoCross-references power meter data
Supported accuracy level+/- 1%+/- 1%+/- 2%+/- 1.5%
Trainer ControlWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Allows 3rd party trainer controlYesYesYesYes
Supports ANT+ FE-C (Trainer Control Standard)YesYesYesYes
Supports Bluetooth Smart FTMS (Trainer Control Standard)YesYesYesYEs
Data BroadcastWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Transmits power via ANT+NoYesYesYEs
Transmits power via Bluetooth SmartNoYesYesYEs
Transmits cadence dataYesYesYesYes
Indoor Bike FeaturesWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Brake levers or buttonsYesBrake LeversNoYes
Shifting typeNormal bike leversButton BasedButtonsButtons
Can customize shifting (Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo)Yes (Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo)In future updateNoComing in app
Can customize gearingYes (both cassette and chainrings)YesMininimalComing in app
Supported Crank Lengths165/167.5/170/172.5/175mm170/172.5/175mm170mm165/170/172.5/175mm
DisplaySmall display near top-tubeYesNoNo
USB Ports1 USB port2 USB Ports (2AMP)NoTwo Ports (Fast Charging)
PurchaseWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Amazon LinkN/ALink
Clever Training - Save with the VIP programLinkLinkLink
DCRainmakerWahoo KICKR BikeTacx NEO Bike SmartWattbike AtomStages Bike
Review LinkLinkLinkLinkLink

Oh, and before you ask why I haven’t included some products into the above – here’s the quick and dirty answers:

Peloton Bike: It’s not a ‘smart’ bike in the sense of the above, it doesn’t allow you to set a specific power level (it does tell you the current power level). Rumors are Peloton is working on such a bike, but nothing today.

SRM Bike: I just don’t see this as a competitor in this space. At $5,000, it’s mostly for various research purposes and is designed in that realm.

True Kinetix Bike: It’s not really shipping globally (just in the Netherlands), and by their own statements is still in a bit of a pre-production state.

VirtuPro: It could also get escalated into the above chart, I’ve talked about it in the past. But I need clarity on when they’ll (actually) ship it with ANT+/BLE support, and realistic timelines to that. Else, it’s a proprietary solution that doesn’t really fit what the tables are designed for (the rest of the bikes here are compatible with all industry protocols).

Again, I’m more than happy to add products into the database. In general, my rule of thumb is I want hands-on time (or butts-on in this case), and I want some realistic level of clarity on delivery time frames.


For a first go of a smart bike, what Wahoo has done is pretty darn impressive. While I disagree slightly on the practicalities of some aspects of the bike, the actual execution of much of the details for the riding experience is spot-on. As I’ve said numerous times in this post and elsewhere, by far Wahoo’s shifting and gearing setup is easily the best in the industry. It’s not just the software, and not just the shifting hardware – but the blend between them. It’s what everyone should be aiming for as a starting point going into 2020, anything less just won’t be acceptable. And the Wahoo KICKR CLIMB integration into the frame is the cherry on top (even if downhills while at 100% trainer difficult are still halved by Zwift for no logical reason). The natural sway and movement of the bike is much appreciated too, it just feels more like a bike. It rides more like a bike, than the others.

Still, Wahoo made the choice to replicate an outside road bike, indoors. Whereas Tacx in their decision tree essentially upscaled a trainer into a full-fledged indoor bike. In the case of Wahoo, that gained them things like the natural movement and shifters, over Tacx. But it also meant that simple things like ‘Where do I put my phone?’ or ‘Why is the gearing display in such a bad spot?’, seemingly were incomplete afterthoughts. One of the big strengths of the Tacx bike is the entire display console that doubles as a place to store things and hold tablets (with multiple USB ports). Sure, I could add a $250 Wahoo KICKR desk, but even that is clunky due to the CLIMB portion going up/down. I’d love to see Wahoo create some sort of KICKR-bike specific tray off the front to hold phones/tablets/gels/etc – all the things you use on an indoor bike versus an outdoor bike.

And certainly, some of you will think that’s a funny thing to complain about. And then I’ll ask to see pictures of your cave setup and find you using a $35 hospital bedside tray jury-rigged next to a $3,500 indoor bike – to hold your gels and phone carefully strung to the USB port of your bike going up and down, for that long trainer session. And then it won’t seem like such a trivial thing.

Still – I think Wahoo has set the bar for the ride feel and execution of the pedaling part of the bike. Aspects like the bearpaw style crank length system ‘just work’, and the app integration around bike fit are also exceptionally well done.  And hopefully one day the aux ports will mean shifting on the bar ends of triathlon/TT aerobars too. Of course, I do worry about shipping timelines, and early production issues (which based on early regular user reports, don’t seem limited to my sample).

If Wahoo can sort out those early product quirks, then they could be in a very strong position in mid to late 2020 to crown themselves the best indoor smart bike king. Until then – I think it’s a bit early for anyone to carry that title. But, Wahoo’s bike on paper is the closest to it.

Found this review useful? Or just wanna save a bundle? Here’s how:

Hopefully you found this review useful. At the end of the day, I’m an athlete just like you looking for the most detail possible on a new purchase – so my review is written from the standpoint of how I used the device. The reviews generally take a lot of hours to put together, so it’s a fair bit of work (a labor of love). As you probably noticed by looking below, I also take the time to answer all the questions posted in the comments – and there’s quite a bit of detail in there as well.

I’ve partnered with Clever Training to offer all DC Rainmaker readers exclusive benefits on all products purchased.  By joining the Clever Training VIP Program, you will earn 10% points on this item and 10% off (instantly) on thousands of other fitness products and accessories.  Points can be used on your very next purchase at Clever Training for anything site-wide.  You can read more about the details here.  By joining, you not only support the site (and all the work I do here) – but you also get to enjoy the significant partnership benefits that are just for DC Rainmaker readers.  And, since this item is more than $49, you get free 3-day (or less) US shipping as well.

Wahoo KICKR Bike (US)

Additionally, you can also use Amazon to purchase the unit (though, no discount/points). Or, anything else you pick up on Amazon helps support the site as well (socks, laundry detergent, cowbells). If you’re outside the US, I’ve got links to all of the major individual country Amazon stores on the sidebar towards the top.

Thanks for reading!

DC Rainmaker:

View Comments (180)

  • Quick question: Do you have to move the hole the pedals are in when you switch between two users or can it just be as simple as swapping seatpost/saddles? Wife is 5'4" and I am 6'0". Thanks!

    • It is up to you Steven. Depends on the usual crank lengths you use. If you were to go from longest to shortest it would be noticeable, but 170-172 probably wouldn't be for most people.

      but your choice for sure.

  • Thank you for this very insightful review, Ray.

    I live in Germany and my bikestore-of-choice informed me they expect a limited stock of bikes to be available in early april.
    *Fingers crossed for quick delivery*

    Luckily, my employer provides me with a 10% discount code (company benefits).

    It‘s expensive, yes. But in my opinion it's absolutely worth the money considering I can finally share one bike with my wife.
    Riding outdoors offers a boring landscape, bad roads and a certain danger where I live, so I am riding indoors exclusively.

  • I'm not seeing anything about cycling dynamics / pedal balance calculations measured by the Kickr Bike. My Tacx Neo 2 has this and it's such an invaluable tool, especially since I get that data from the Neo 2 on my Fenix 6x Pro. Is it true that the Kickr Bike doesn't measure/transmit this data?

  • Hi Ray,

    Great review as usual!

    Have been waiting patiently since the bike was announced but there is still no update from wahoo on when stock is expected in the uk. Do you have any knowledge of what is causing the delay? Is it down to them wanting to get software right before widespread release? or is there a more fundamental problem with manufacturing or the actual bike itself?

    Also, wondered if you know whether this bike, or equivalent from tacx and wattbike, are compatible with bkool simulator? I'm subscribed to bkool but their customer support isn't great and they have not answered this question, likewise wahoo.


    • Now available to order at Sigma and Rutland at least with delivery for 27/03. Though everything is pretty much up in the air at the moment . Very tempted...

    • I haven't heard anything there. Given US orders are still backordered, I wouldn't expect them to start on the UK.

  • Question: Can the gearing/shifting be paired with a bike computer (ANT+ or BT), like Di2 or eTAP? As the Gearing Display is in an inconvenient position at the Kickr Bike, this should be a "must have option". Just my 2 cents!

    • I can confirm deselecting the control option for ant+ fe-c works with Zwift. Not ideal but it does let you run zwift in the background and control with a different bluetooth app.

    • They're now confused about their own products. From the review, here's what the KICKR Bike transmits:

      ANT+ FE-C Trainer Control: This is for controlling the trainer via ANT+ from apps and head units. Read tons about it here.

      Bluetooth Smart Wahoo Trainer Control: This is Wahoo’s private method of controlling the trainer. At this point it does NOT yet support FTMS, but that switch-over is planned in early 2020 according to Wahoo last week. I suspect the issue is the same as Tacx not supporting it, in that the FTMS standard doesn’t support a way to configure the rider’s weight, which is important for correctly applying the ride feel.

      As noted above, the Wahoo BIKE does *NOT* transmit a standard ANT+ or Bluetooth Smart power meter signal, like all other Wahoo trainers do. Saying something "transmits via BT" is like telling someone to go buy batteries for their product without telling you which battery to buy.

      Most trainers, including Wahoo's trainers (but not the bike), broadcast four basic things concurrently:

      1) ANT+ FE-C: Trainer control protocol via ANT+/
      2) Bluetooth Smart FTMS: Trainer control protocol (technically Wahoo broadcasts their own variant of it, but that's immaterial to this discussion)
      3) ANT+ Power Meter Device Profile: Inclusive of both speed and cadence channels, as well as power.
      4) Bluetooth Smart Power Meter Device Profile: Inclusive of both speed and cadence channels, as well as power.

      It's these last two that are key for compatible with non-Wahoo/Garmin bike computers, as well as all watches out there, and numerous apps. The whole point of this entire discussion was pairing to non-FE-C/FTMS compatible devices with the BIKE, which the bike plainly doesn't do. Wahoo has confirmed themselves it doesn't do it, and that it's on their radar to do it down the road. I frankly don't understand why Wahoo Support is arguing with this point. If they're confused on this, they should walk across the hall and talk to anyone within the Bike division.

      To your original question - no, you can't dual-run apps concurrently because the two apps will try and take control on both workouts since both are using the FTMS or FE-C control protocols. The one exception to that is that I think in Zwift you can deselect the 'Trainer Control' option after selecting it, which might be a workout for Zwift specifically.

    • Another answer from Wahoo:

      "What's deceptive and confusing is Ray is stating that the KICKR Bike do not transmit over BT, it does. Ray may be correct, there may be no watches that transmit over ANT+ FE-C, but there are numerous computers which do. I apologize I am not an expert in Garmin and other manufacturers watches, but I am an expert on our products. It will connect to a cycling computer over ANT+ FE-C and still transmit via BT. I am sorry Ray chose to focus on the one miniscule piece of incorrect information."

      My initial question was if it is possible to connect via regular ANT+ or/and BT.
      With my Tacx Neo for example I am using Zwift (connected to Power and Cadence via ANT+ broadcasting) running Trainerroad or Rouvy for workouts on my iPad (via Wahoo ANT+ Dongle) and use it paired over ANT FE-C to control the trainer and replicate the workout.
      I guess this is not possible with the Kickr bike and that was the question I asked Wahoo...

      So I guess I have to use at least BT and ANT FE-C to ride with the same programs/configurations I am riding right now on my Tacx Neo? ANT+ is not broadcasted?

    • Thx Ray for some plain talking! I forwarded this to Wahoo.
      I would have been very disappointed, as a new customer finding out, that they did not tell exactly whats going on. Meanwhile I found, that this was already discussed at the garmin forum about the Forerunner 945: https://forums.garmin.com/sports-fitness/running-multisport/f/forerunner-945/208670/anyone-connect-945-to-new-kickr-bike

      And I totally agree, that the gearing display's position is a disaster. Most people use a sweat cover, which would make it almost impossible to have an eye on it.

  • TRANSMITS POWER VIA ANT+ and Bluetooth = NO

    Does this mean I am not able to see Power simultaneously on a Garmin Edge for example, while paired to Zwift?

    • Couldn't agree more.

      Hopefully wahoo sees this and pushes the firmware update. There are lots of garmin users on this thing I am sure. It is 3 months that the bike has been out. Just get it together and push it out.

      Other than that, they put out an awesome product... even the resonance and gear change resistance things are completely tolerable. Just get broadcasting out and move forward.

    • P.s. When I say perfectly, the file that the Garmin has its full of dropouts, so while it did record the Zwift ride or want a copy of the Zwift file....

    • I'd recommend responding back to Wahoo with the following then:

      "Wahoo Support's response is laughably incorrect. There are zero watches that support ANT+ FE-C today in the market. None. So in essence, no watches can connect to the Wahoo KICKR Bike. There's nothing deceptive or confusing about this."

      Dear Wahoo - I know you're watching this thread. Get your crap together and stop spreading misinformation. I have an exceeding low tolerance for companies that do that.

    • Ray, this is an answer to the broadcasting question from Wahoo:

      "Ray's information is not entirely correct and is quite deceptive and confusing. The only limitation of the current data output for BIKE is if a user is trying to use the BIKE with a very old watch or Garmin computer that doesn't support the ANT+ FE-C profile. All bike computers and most watches released in the past 3 years have all had support for FE-C."

    • RE: Pairing as FE-C

      Yes, that's always been a possibility, but it's also playing with fire a bit. It can result in tug-of-war type scenarios between the two (Zwift & Edge). In theory, the Edge shouldn't be sending commands via FE-C as long as you don't touch it. But, that's also a bit of theory (and a few years of watching comments shows that theory doesn't always hold up - whereby it might actually send a check command or such).

      It also doesn't help watch people (where FE-C isn't implemented), nor people with Bluetooth only watches (Suunto or Polar).

      Not saying it's a totally dead shim, but just be aware that if you start seeing funky behavior - it's almost undoubtedly that.


    • So ray and rest of the forum - now that’s it been a couple of months and several firmware updates - should I buy ? Really trying to convince myself but don’t want to be disappointed with version 1.0 (and also don’t want to wait until version 2.0)

    • I think you just need to make sure that you do not have a power sensor enabled in settings. If you've set up the KICKR Bike as a power sensor, go into settings and disable the power sensor (you don't need to remove it) and the 530 will use the trainer for power.

    • Interesting. I have used the 530 to control the Kickr bike for a trainign session, but haven't had it just record the Zwift session. Will try this later today. Be good if this works as it will then update the training status in Garmin Connect - I'll have to link the Tickr HRM to the 530 over ANT+ .

    • I checked this again today, and it does work, though not using the ANT+ power sensor setting.

      What I have is the KICKR Bike set as a trainer on the Edge 530, and the trainer sensor uses an ANT+ connection (the trainer is set by going to Menu -> Training -> Indoor Trainer -> Trainer Sensor). I can then use the Indoor ride profile on the Edge 530 to record my Zwift ride and I do get power data on the Edge 530 and in Zwift.

      I used this set-up briefly before putting a pair of Vector 3 pedals on the KICKR Bike and didn't have any issues recording a Zwift ride on the 530 with power.

    • I haven't heard any mention of it being added by Wahoo folks, nor is it listed in the firmware updates.

      There's ways you could technically achieve both concurrent Zwift and Sufferfest with the dual-channeling of Bluetooth Smart control, then deselecting the 'controllable' side on Zwift after pairing.

    • It seemed to work about a month ago with power data over ANT being sent to Zwift and to an Edge 530. Only tried it once because I put Garmin Vector pedals on the bike and have been using them for power. Maybe there was an update at some point. Might be worth trying again.

    • I searched and saw a Wahoo Employee using the Kickr Bike with Sufferfest for controlled Workouts and Zwift for broadcasting Power and Cadence to the program simultaneously! So missing broadcasting was maybe only a beta Firmware thing?

    • I just connect Zwift to my Garmin and Strava accounts to synch the data there and then use a Strava addin to do ride analysis. The only thing I am giving up currently is the training status on Garmin, which I can get on other platoons anyway.
      The Kickr Bike is pretty awesome. The incline feature has really helped my winter training come up with much better climbing using the same muscles I use on the road.

    • Too bad. So the Kickr Bike is off my list... I always pair my Neo to trainerroad and ride my workouts there, while simultaneously being connected to Zwift via Ant+ Power and Cadence. I would not give this up for any new bike...

    • I suspect it is, as it's only Garmin users who appreciate that; however a: there are a lot of us! b. delight us as customers rather than have us 2nd guess your motives... your motive should always be to delight your customers :-).

      p.s. This is all caused by the way Garmin licences First Beat and that Garmin connect is effectively 'brain dead' - other platforms still process the fit fie well enough - Garmin use the device to do the calc for the training status rather than having Connect do the calc.

    • I mentioned it to Wahoo support and they made it seem like broadcasting regular Ant+ power was low on their priority list.

  • Ray, I just took delivery of my wahoo bike. I surprised by the small amount of front to back movement when shifting weight on the bike. Did you experience this? In the grand scheme of things it's not the end of the world but it's not very realistic. The bike is stable but there is some front to back flex for sure. Would love to know if this is a "feature" or just a byproduct of the design. Other than that the bike is amazing.

  • Hi and help. What does the bar graph on the left side of the screen represent? Cadence? This is the FulGaz view of my ride on Apple TV. Why doesn’t it show up when I upload my ride to Strava?

    • Thank you Led. I suspected that was the answer. How come it doesn’t get uploaded with the rest of the statistics to Strava? Is that the two channel issue with Wahoo?

    • What do the numbers represent? If I pedal faster, the top one increases, usually in the 70-90 range. I have emailed FulGaz and wahoo but have not received any responses.

    • The pic is blurry, but I believe that is the Gearing graphic. It shows your front chain set and cassette gearing.

  • Thanks for the copious detail both here and elsewhere on the site. Am hoping to be able to start some indoor training in March to recover from a broken neck (cycling accident). Since its going to be a year or so before I can get outside again, I thought I'd take the plunge on the best indoor experience I can get. Am torn between getting a Kickr Core and Climb or waiting for the Kickr Bike to come out in the UK - Any news on when that might be? I'd hate to go for the Core and Climb if the Bike replaces it soon after, but I guess that there is no guarantee that the first Kickr Bikes will be problem free. And being a heavy rider, I guess I will stress the initial design somewhat! I assume that 2nd gen Kickr Bikes will come along in late 2021, so the Core and Climb would be the better bet until then?

    • Someone in the posts above had their Wahoo Dealer agree to let them buy a core and climb and then trade it for a bike when it became available... might be worth asking whoever you are going to buy it from in the UK if they would do something like that?

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