Heads up! The big Garmin annual spring sale has started, with $200 off the Fenix 8 (first sale to date!), $100 off the Edge 1050, Forerunner 965 at $499, the Forerunner 265, the new Instinct 3, and countless other Garmin products including inReach Mini 2. Plus the Apple Watch Ultra 2 Black Titanium is on sale, and some Suunto & Wahoo product deals too. Full list & thoughts here!
I’m DC RAINMAKER…
I swim, bike and run. Then, I come here and write about my adventures. It’s as simple as that. Most of the time. If you’re new around these parts, here’s the long version of my story.
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Here’s my most recent GPS watch guide here, and cycling GPS computers here. Plus there are smart trainers here, all in these guides cover almost every category of sports gadgets out there. Looking for the equipment I use day-to-day? I also just put together my complete ‘Gear I Use’ equipment list, from swim to bike to run and everything in between (plus a few extra things). And to compliment that, here’s The Girl’s (my wife’s) list. Enjoy, and thanks for stopping by!
Have some fun in the travel section.
I travel a fair bit, both for work and for fun. Here’s a bunch of random trip reports and daily trip-logs that I’ve put together and posted. I’ve sorted it all by world geography, in an attempt to make it easy to figure out where I’ve been.
My Photography Gear: The Cameras/Drones/Action Cams I Use Daily
The most common question I receive outside of the “what’s the best GPS watch for me” variant, are photography-esq based. So in efforts to combat the amount of emails I need to sort through on a daily basis, I’ve complied this “My Photography Gear” post for your curious minds (including drones & action cams!)! It’s a nice break from the day-to-day sports-tech talk, and I hope you get something out of it!
The Swim/Bike/Run Gear I Use List
Many readers stumble into my website in search of information on the latest and greatest sports tech products. But at the end of the day, you might just be wondering “What does Ray use when not testing new products?”. So here is the most up to date list of products I like and fit the bill for me and my training needs best! DC Rainmaker 2024 swim, bike, run, and general gear list. But wait, are you a female and feel like these things might not apply to you? If that’s the case (but certainly not saying my choices aren’t good for women), and you just want to see a different gear junkies “picks”, check out The Girl’s Gear Guide too.
CANYON ULTIMATE CF SL FRAMESET
Yes, thats the one i ride, too. It´s a very good frame for a reasonable price. You´ll like it!
Have fun building your new bike!
Hey Ray,
Looks like a great bike build in progress.
Not looking for a bike with more tire clearance? (as in, hop on the Gravel bike hypetrain?)
Just in case you might need it, since your other bikes can’t take much bigger tyres.
Just replying for the BB thing.
BB86 (Canyon always sticks to BB86/92) + Sram BB86 pressfit GXP BB + GXP Sram crankset.
All should be good there!
What are you doubting about?
“Speaking of visitors to the DCR Cave and Paris” – we are visiting Paris again 27-31.10., might stop by :)
all the best from Hamburg
Harald
No problem! Just shoot a note next week sometime and we can arrange times/etc…
will do. First off to Lisbon tomorrow, Citrix Partner Council EMEA is calling on Mon and Tue :)
Hi Ray, any hints as to whether you’re working on reviews for the new Garmin Forerunner 245/645?
Ray never talks about things before being announced
“As you know, N+1 and all…”
So happy to realize I’m not the only human on the planet saying things like “N+1” for “the one after”. It *does* drive my wife up the wall, however.
The N is determined by purpose. I end up at 5, but not thinking about +1 yet…
1 – everyday commuting, in rain, snow, every season, because I must get to work. I do not mind crashing on it, scratching it, tires must be resistant to broken glass
2 – full suspension MTB – riding out of civilization, when you go crazy and jumping
3 – triathlon – speed, aero, competition, etc
4 – road – because it is not the same as triathlon bike
5 – cargo bike, because sometimes things needs to be moved
any justification for +1?
Sure
1) fully pimped bike just for looks & shows (because you can)
2) vacation holiday/travel bike, basically a sturdy mule bike that can stand whatever any environment can throw at it, easily fixable & low maintenance.
3) tandem bike, cuz it’s fun to ride with 2 ;)
Well, in TrainerRoad Podcast 120 they suggested having disc brakes for the descents in the Levi’s GranFondo. I don’t plan on doing that and the roads here are pretty flat, so I can probably hold myself to the 5 bikes in my garage.
That’s the point of +1, it needs no justification. Once you get it, you will find a justification for it. And then it is N+1 again.
Some minor things that I don’t see listed that usually can make you say “How did I forget to order this?”. Just in case…
Brake cables, if they are not included with the SRAM pack. With the cables ends and such.
Thanks. Yup, the brake cables come inside the eTAP Road Kit.
Hey Ray,
I miss seatpost and stem… maybe included in Canyon frameset? Also skewers, but I am sure you should have plenty…
I just would like to give you a different perspective on frame selection… a press-fit BB will make changing cranksets harder than necessary… if you put the GXP bb for PF86, you will be able to use only the GXP Quarq on this bike (I can’t remember any other GXP PM), unless of course you remove & install (press-fit) a new BB.
Of course, finding a bike with a BSA BB these days probably means custom & metal (non-CF) frame. One option that is probably more expensive than the Canyon, but could make changing BB’s much easier in the future is a Pinarello Gan. It has an Italian BB (not BSA, but also threaded), and can fit anything except a “true BB30” (short spindle) crankset. It also looks good.
Hope that helps.
Yeah, the whole pressfit thing is messy. I don’t mind occasionally swapping out bottom brackets, as I’m kinda used to it now. But still, I like to avoid it. I agree that I wish I could keep it just threaded and simple, like my Cervelo. So much easier and faster.
The Gan is certainly nice looking, but almost three times the cost of the Canyon frame. :-/
Well… if you are brave enough you could try a direct order to one of the custom Ti manufacturers in China (I have one from Walty). You can customize anything… even build a travel bike… for maybe less than the Canyon.
Bottom bracket pieces can be so confusing!
If you haven’t already bought the brakes, do yourself a favor and pick up some DA 9100 brakes or eebrakes to pair with the eTap groupset. Even with the longer pull, the modulation is amazingly better than the Red brakes and makes a huge difference.
Speak to someone really smart say a Dan Empfield kind of guy about the 175 cranks…think consensus is now the shorter the better…my only input is I’d spent probably 15 years on 172.5 then went up to 175’s and took 5 years struggling now I spent most of my time on a MTB with 170’s and my knees feel a whole lot better
Here was some good info on it:
link to trainingpeaks.com
Re the new bike: if the rims are compatible, go tubeless, you won’t regret it!
What’s wrong with fries from Mickey Ds? Granted they’re no waffle fries from Chik-Fil-A, but still…
haha, that was my thought too -especially considering some of the pics of unhealthy looking food he posts a lot. :)
Here’s my vote for a disc-brake bike with thru-axles. I really want to hear your take on thru axle compatibility with trainers and other potential issues with power meters. I just started using a disc bike with thru axle this year, and I’m sold on the power and modulation of the brakes. I’m pretty sure they’ve helped me avoid a couple close ones. Maybe your etap is incompatible with disc. Have fun with the build!
My initial plan was definitely disc-brake with thru-axle. But as I did more part planning, things started to unravel.
The SRAM eTAP kit I bought a year ago was for road with mechanical brakes, so while it doesn’t have brakes itself, it’s designed for mechanical brakes versus the Hydro disc side. The downside with thru-axle as well for me is inability to swap wheelsets around. Though, I’ve come to realize I don’t do that a ton, except to ‘loaner/rental’ bikes, in which case I already have both a PowerTap wheel in 10 speed and 11 speed configurations anyway, so I’d still have those.
Would also be your only bike with that setup. Would that change your views on trainers? Point out which work out of box and which don’t in the reviews
it was a 10k race indeed.
10kmpariscentre.com
I admire folks who are riding bikes equipped with a Fizik saddles…
My TT bike, the Cannondale Slice came with a Fizik Arione and I just rode it from a shop to home. It was a torture from a Spanish inquisition! Top quality materials and excellent craftsmanship built on a saddle which is a pain…
Since then I changed it for a Selle Italia SLR Superflow 143mm (L3). And I am so happy with it, that on a road bike I built in 2015 I used the same type of saddle.
And just ordered a Pro Stealth 142mm to my everyday commuting bike (not arrived yet), but looking forward to compare it with the SI Superflow…
IMHO
Yeah, the Fizik saddles didn’t work for me either. I rode a Selle Italia SLR Flow for a long time and loved it. Switched to a Cobb SHC saddle on a recommendation and it ended up being too narrow for me. Settled on the S-Works Power saddle and absolutely love it – now I have one for each of my bikes.
+1 on the S-Works Power. Looks a little wonky, but boy something to be said about research driving design.
Don’t forget the corollary to the N+1 rule. It is applicable only as it approaches D-1, with D being the number of bikes that will get you divorced.
Looks like you selected a compact BCD for your cranks. It’s probably ok, but I could see problems if a spider based power meter sends you a standard 130 BCD set.
You might be fine with the Force level chain vs. the Red level. Not much difference and the Force may be more durable (for the workhorse)
Yeah, I tend to like the 110 compact, especially if I’m in the Alps. I haven’t had any issues with requesting 110BCD’s in most cases, and those that do tend to just ship me the whole crank setup anyway.
Good call on RED vs Force chain, I’ll do some pondering there.
I’d go further and recommend ultegra chains and cassettes. I run them on all my bikes, including SRAM, and they shift better and last longer. Looks like a fun project!
SRAM chains all the way! I use the PC1130 on both of my Shimano setups. Then again I do consider chains a consumable riding all weathers so value/cost is one of my deciding factors…
KMC last the longest for me and come in more colors. Easier then ultegra and not screwing up the direction. (ok, not that hard but still…)
I just built up a new bike this summer and the one things I was very happy with was a bottom bracket from Wheels Manufacturing. I built a Cervèlo and was able to forgo the Press fit with one of their threaded adapters. Haven’t had one sound/creak etc. from the bottom bracket. Expensive but worth is especially if you will be removing the cranks often.
Why don´t you build your own wheels, while you already going to build your bike? link to sheldonbrown.com
You need some tools (carbon saw blade and saw guide) to shorten the steerer tube. They’re always way to long on new framsets.
Hey Ray – thanks for showing us around. Was great to chat with you. Parts list looks good to me – though you may want to think of ordering some of the small stuff (chain keeper, spare rear der hanger, carbon pads if they didn’t come with the Sram Reds) if you don’t have any laying around. And don’t forget to order some more custom name decals for your frame! Gotta keep it pro.
P.S. Link below in the news this morning – relevant given our chat on living with Seattle. Are you sure you don’t still want to come back? :) See you on zwift.
link to seattletimes.com
Others have hinted at it but I’ll be more blunt. Why build another road bike when you could build something more versatile? Build yourself something with clearance for wider tires like the 2bliss 700×32 and then set them up tubeless. That opens up terrain that you can’t ride on standard road tires. As for disc brakes, TRP’s mech / hydro setup would work just fine. They will not be as nice as a set of true hydro brakes but the’re far better than the all mechanical discs.
Yeah, if I was near such terrain – I’d definitely be branching out. But the reality is that I live in heart of a massive city. Almost all of my riding that’s nearby is road-based. Weekday rides rarely venture beyond the borders of the city (to one of the various closed parks for cyclists), and weekend rides still have at least 30-40 minutes getting out of the city, at which point it’s mostly just rolling country roads.
yup, I live in Paris too and can confirm that.
Nevertheless, another advantage of tubeless is puncture prevention: I recently converted for the winter (schwalbe g-one) and what really convinced me was the day I got home with a 5mm shard of glass in my back tyre. I did at least 20Km with that thing in there. I noticed I had rolled though glass but didn’t feel any loss of pressure, so kept going… and probably could have gone on forever like this if I hadn’t removed the piece of dried sealant when cleaning the bike !
Anyway, doing the repair at home definitely beats having to stop on the side of the road and it probably would take me just a couple minutes once I get used to it.
These are great as winter tyres, and they might stay even even a bit longer since I’m a bit lazy and don’t notice a big difference with the Contis 4000GPs I normally use…
You forgot the bike bell…duh
Holy cow, while looking for a funny bike bell to post back, I just found this totally awesome gigantic shark bike bell: link to amzn.to
I personally like the ones with the attached water bottle full of compressed air. Sounds like a stadium volume air horn. Watching some youtube videos on air zound will make you laugh
however, the shark or hamburger bells work well to
Airzound… a friend had that, and I tried something similar (Hornit) for a while. we both gave up. Remember that arrogant car driver who accelerates and honks when he feels others should give way to him? that’s you with one of these devices. I don’t think it’s really nice to scare old ladies, and many pedestrians just don’t care anyway. A few become quite vindicative, cars are definitely not impressed… I figured these systems are in fact quite counter productive.
a loud freewheel is just as efficient around pedestrians, and when it comes to emergency situations, brakes are definitely more efficient.
So did you answer the question as to what pedal based power meter you think is best? (Referencing your choice of the Garmin Vector 3)
I wouldn’t say best. I’d just say it fits what I want.
What I like most about European cities is how quickly you can get out to the countryside. When people live 5,000, 10,000 or even 20,000 to the square mile, the city just doesn’t sprawl out as far. You sure see that with these photos and this blog post.
Why not try to look for your frame and some other parts on troc-velo.com? You can save quite a lot and make the build quite a travel experience.
Be aware it gets adctive and puts you on the road to n+2
From one of the pictures I noticed that you are still using p2m NGEco? If so, have you got any Low Battery warnings on head unit related NGEco battery? I have got couple of times even the battery is new (got from original battery and then with the new battery what I replaced). Head unit is garmin edge 820 what I’m using.
Yeah, got one Sunday. Though, the battery may actually be low.
Ray, not sure if it matters to you, but what if the 3rd bike were a gravel or CX model? Would allow for testing out wider tires and/or riding pretty much anywhere that a regular road bike might not be practical. I cannot tell if the Ultimate has good tire clearance out back, tho the front fork looks about the same as their Inflite CX bike from a tire clearance perspective.
Been a loyal C’Dale rider (was sponsored decades ago), then Felt and am now looking at ordering a Canyon Inflite as a daily ride to take on/offroad. Looks like a good ride.
Well, definitively you are missing the tail light. I Recommend this nice pair of (blue) balls: link to amazon.com
Do you plan on taping the build for your YouTube channel?
If you don’t have extra saddle bag/flat kit for the new bike, I’d consider picking up a new one.
It’s less to worry about switching each ride, and it’s much harder to forget all together. (And of course, flats always seem to happen when you forget your flat kit).
I love how the new bike section is likely a copy of the reasons The Girl was given in justifying the new bike.
“Think of the time I’ll save in the long run not having to swap bits over all the time!”
Hi there is a great frame from the UK produced by Bowmans called the palace R it is aluminium but the great thing is it uses a threaded BB and also gives the option of running the cables concealed or exterior ( both these changes in response to customer requests !!!!!!) the name comes from evening criterium run at the Crystal Palace
Atom is made in Taiwan Giant!
oh!
That’s quite a nice list of bike components!
I like your website.
Are you going to have an unboxing and show us the steps for putting your new bike together?
I’m not 100% sure on the plan, but right now I’ve got a pile of boxes that came in today, and a few more tomorrow (mainly the frame left, and the wheels maybe tomorrow). But I think everything is here.
I’ve left all the components in their original box, save eTAP which I consolidated a year ago from 9 boxes down to 1 box (original one box). So…still sorting it out. :)
Really impressed by the way the frame comes with a torque wrench. Things I’ve missed in the past.
1) Tools for installing headset.
2) Magnets for speed / cadence sensors
3) Speed /cadence sensors requiring disassembly of one of n-1 fleet.
4) Bar end caps
5) Cable crimp ends (as inevitably I assemble then find I need to re-cable for some reason. Ended up buying a bag of 100 of the things.
6) carbon paste (again supplied with – that’s a nice touch), electrical tape, copper slip
7) bottle cage bolts
8) and the worst one of all, not relevant now, but the under BB cable guide thing. That was a nightmare that meant I was able to ride my bike for the first time 20mins before the start of a half ironman.
I’m a bit taller than you and a few years ago went for 177.5 cranks. Must admit that coupled with a couple of serious ankle injuries then I’m struggling to get back to my target cadence. Only really an issue on zwift where it doesn’t let you target to 80 or 85rpm, but locks you to 90rpm +/- 5. So for my new build I’ll be back to 175mm cranks.
Good list!
I think I’ve got everything there, save additional cable crimps. I know I’ve got enough for this, but if I screw some up (totally valid possibility), then I’ll have to find more. I agree with you, should have just ordered a 100 of them off Amazon for a few bucks.
Will find out shortly, UPS is set to arrive in the next hour or so with the frame and the rest of the random parts I ordered via Canyon. In theory, that means I’ll have all the parts. In reality, I’m ready to be disappointed with forgetting stuff. :)