Over the last week many of you asked me to look into Elite’s new Turbo Muin trainer, which was just announced by the Italian cycling company. So I did just that, thus, let’s dive right into things.
The 17kg (37.4lbs) fluid trainer contains a 5.9kg (13lbs) flywheel that contains a known power curve up to 2,200w if pumping along at a blistering 60KPH. The unit includes a foldable frame to slightly decrease the overall real-estate for storage post-ride.
Unlike some trainers where the flywheel often acts as the internal fan and/or cooling unit, the Turbo Muin contains a secondary fan for cooling, which you can see below to the lower left.
It’s in part due to this design and a chambered approach that makes the unit so astoundingly quiet. I was hoping to get a good audio clip of it, but every time I was in the area the convention center was crazy loud – so while you’d never hear it, it would have been kinda pointless to take a clip of not hearing it because folks would have assumed it was just due to the other loud sounds.
From listening to it multiple times over two days the only thing I heard was the sounds of the bikes drivetrain and chain going through the cassette/chainring. It’s possibly going to be slightly more noticeable in a quiet living room, but without question by far the quietest trainer I’ve seen to date. It’s like comparing the roar of a lion (normal trainer) to that of a house cat with duct tape on it (Turbo Muin).
It’s compatible with 130mm and 135mm road and mountain bike hubs that have a 5mm diameter quick release on the rear wheel. And on cassette compatibility it’s available with Shimano 9/10/11 speed cassettes and you can also purchase a free hub with Campagnolo 9/10/11 speed cassette compatibility.
In order to determine power and speed, a speed-sensor is placed hanging off the chain stay near the flywheel. This reads a magnet inside the flywheel enclosure. Based on the magnet the unit can determine speed. Because fluid as a resistance medium is very stable, the power curve is quite predictable. That means that at X speed, the power will always be Y. For example, at 15MPH, the power might always be 326 watts. They said on average it takes about 2-3 minutes for the fluid within the unit to reach stability from a wattage power curve standpoint.
This speed is then broadcast via ANT to the iPad app I’ll discuss in a moment. The only trickiness with the below implementation as one can pretty plainly see is that you’ll need to rotate the sensor in/out of where the rear wheel would normally be each time you attach the unit to the trainer.
The secondary challenge here is that the unit isn’t actually broadcasting your speed and/or power via ANT+. Instead, the app has to convert the speed using the known power curve to display power to you in the app. It’s really too bad that the unit couldn’t simply do that straight forward calculation internal to the sensor and then broadcast speed/power as true ANT+ to any head unit. That way you could simply connect a unit like a Garmin Edge or other bike computer to get more information straight into that device.
Looking at the app side, the unit includes an iPad app that will chart and display your speed/cadence/distance/power. The iPad app requires the use of the ANT+ iPhone adapter, seen below attached to the iPad.
Above you have a workout/interval mode, and below you’ve got more of a generic display mode.
Now, in the case of the Turbo Muin, it won’t actually control the resistance – rather, it will simply report your current power. That means that for the workout creator (seen above), it’s really more about giving you visual queues to adjust your speed to in turn adjust resistance. Remember there isn’t a resistance control lever/knob – resistance is simply controlled by speed.
In addition to a workout creator mode, you can also create and ‘ride’ pre-created routes over maps.
In this mode you’ll see the distance/cadence/HR/power and speed, as well as an indication of the slope of that area of the map. Like the workout mode, again it won’t control the resistance to the corresponding slope. Instead you’ll just need to adjust your work-effort to match the increased slope (such as by changing gearing).
Once you’ve completed a course you can share it onto Twitter/Google+/Facebook:
In addition to sharing with your friends, you can also transmit a .CSV file via e-mail to whomever you prefer…like, yourself.
The Turbo Muin trainer costs $719US/580€. The app costs $12US/10€ per year. There’s also a 10-minute free trial of the app permitted as well. This pricing puts it slightly on the high end of non-resistance controlled trainers, a touch bit more than the LeMond Revolution (ironically pitting this as the quietest trainer on the market with what is the loudest trainer on the market). If Elite had provided in-box ANT+ power meter broadcasting I feel the unit would be much better positioned in the market.
The trainers are built in Italy, and delivery is expected in late October for Europe. US will follow in early December – or simply the length of time it takes for the boat to float from Italy to the US.
While I will be testing one out, it’s unlikely a unit will arrive in time to include in my trainer roundup and recommendations post in two weeks.
Welcome to Interbike week! This week during Interbike 2013 I’ll be tweeting from the exhibition show floor quite a bit, as well as posting frequently. Here’s a quick and handy link to all Interbike-related posts.
I agree, without Ant+ not worth a buy…
Hi Ray, many thanks for this post, when I initially saw this product I tried to find out how it worked to see if my 910xt could pick up the power, if it could it was definitely going on my ‘want’ list. I couldn’t find out much detail and now with your post the veil has lifted. I’ve no iPad, no plans to get one and it’s not how i’d want to organise my indoor training (through their app).
I agree, if this was changed to broadcast ANT+ rather than run it through the app then I think they’d really be on to something.
An head to head with the Kickr seems unavoidable
Not as much in this case. Price wise KICKR is $300 more, and has resistance control – this doesn’t not. The KICKR spits out native ANT+ and Bluetooth Smart Power/Speed numbers, this does not.
Which doesn’t take away from the Muin, but simply clarifies it. As I noted above, it’s in a tricky spot price-wise compared to other trainers.
If the pickup is sensing a magnet on the flywheel, why does the pickup need to go on the chainstay? Why not stick it to the flywheel housing?
It’s funny, as I was writing this post, I was actually thinking the same thing. I’ll find out.
Further to Lou’s question about the position of the pickup – If there is a magnet on the fly wheel, what is to stop you from using a standard ant+ speed sensor and using it with something like TrainerRoad?
You could definitely do that. I’ve got to believe that TrainerRoad will work to add it into their existing power curves, since they support tons of other Elite units (List here, bottom of page with dropdowns: link to trainerroad.com)
You can but you will have an innacurate speed (the speed isn’t constant : the harder you push, the harder is the fluid). Same problem with the original Muin Turbo (not “real”). Elite forces you to use their app because it translates your speed and cadence into power taking into account the property of the fluid. Your ant+ sensor and your garmin won’t take into account the fluid evolutive resistance).
Really, I wouldn’t buy this Real Muin. I have the original Muin and a used Quarq which cost as much as the Real Muin. Much better in my opinion because you can use every app you want and I guess the power output are much more accurate (and I don’t give a **** if my average speed an distance are innacurate).
Would be interesting to see a software-based solution for simulating hill topology on a product like this. Naturally, it can’t make it harder directly with a fluid resistance unit, but they could modify the reported on-screen speed/distance and create an indirect feedback loop. That is, the flywheel speed (what it is measuring) isn’t directly useful information, but as it can be converted into power you can then generate a virtual speed by taking into account calculated power as well as the simulated weight/grade/wind/etc. which would be far more instructive AND could be used to convince you to increase resistance when climbing (ie if your speed drops to 3km/h, you’re likely going to pick it up). Naturally, the gearing would be very different so it’s not the same as a motor-brake based unit, but anyone used to riding on a fluid trainer is already used to adjusting speed in different manners than they do on the road.
Tour de Giro will do exactly that for ANT+ powermeters (including multiplayer racing and the upload of custom maps), although it seems we won’t be able to use this trainer’s private ANT+ protocol. I initially worked with an ANT+ powertap, and the mental effect of virtually climbing or descending hills is pretty pronounced – Even though my trainer at the time wouldn’t change resistance, I’d still rest going down hills and increase power going up them.
Tour de Giro dev
We also have very high quality software that will do what Elite offer here for free, looks like any Ant+ speed sensor will work on this trainer. Inside our software settings you will be able to map the flyweel speed to power & share this. When we have this mapped we can display a virtual speed thats based on the power curve as well as power.
I’ve built a software program which does just that. I have a KK Rock&Roll trainer, and Power2Max power meter. The power is used, together with gradient and rider weight, to play a video in the right speed. It can be used to play videos with control files meant for the older Tacx software (the old Fortius software).
I’m developing on (Ubuntu) Linux, so it will probably not work in Windows and Mac right now, but it shouldn’t be very hard to port. It’s also pretty bare-bones, but works quite well. I do most of my indoor training with this software, apart from the more intensive sessions, for which I use Sufferfest videos. A short, low resolution, video of the software is here: link to youtube.com, and the source is here: link to bitbucket.org
I don’t think I’d make the assumption that fluid based load generators are necessarily stable. I know my Cyclops Fluid2 is not…and I’m not alone in that observation: link to forum.slowtwitch.com
Interesting stuff, especially on your notes on tire speed as well contributing. And unlike a resistance controlled trainer where you could keep gearing identical and thus speed identical, tire speed is actually an integral part fluid trainers as speed = resistance.
No Ant+ no dice. Amazing any company wouldn’t realize this. And the whole “you can ride a course by simulating hill power by pedaling faster thing” just seems like an after thought and not very practical. Love the silent aspect though, looking forward to version 2.0 next year…
With all these fluid trainers you can match cadence to power requirements by changing gears. It works and it works very well. If this baby measured torque at a high frequency, I’d want one (sprint coach, not so interested in steady state … ). the ultimate ergo is still the SRM ergo …
Also…flywheel mass alone doesn’t tell the whole story on pedaling inertia.
What matters is how that mass is distributed on the flywheel and how fast it is being spun. As I said more than once this past week “It’s not the mass, but what you DO with it that counts” 😉
Really interested to know road-like feel compared to lemond rev and kickr.
I can answer myself… Yes it’s silent. BUT, road-like feel is not there at all! Feels like biking on sand, hopeless as trainer. If you want roadlike feel go for kurt kenetics with the extra weight, not as silent though…
It’s a pretty trivial affair to build a speed sensor that does that calculation and broadcasts power for a trainer. There are obvious limitations to this (inaccuracies caused by temp, air pressure, etc), but since they’ll output a CSV file then the numbers needed for Trainerroad can easily be regressed to the original calculation. The same numbers could be put into microcontroller and In a single afternoon put together the necessary electronics to do what everyone wants and broadcast ANT+ power direct from a sensor attached to the trainer!
One more thing Total hardware cost to do this for me right now using nordic semi’s nRF51422 is < $10 + 4 – 6 hours work.
If I was a tech whiz like that and could fashion a similar ANT+ gadget I would definitely buy one of these. The prospect of being able to do sneaky silent 5am or 10pm training sessions? Forget about it! Sold!
Patiently waiting for your trainer review! Need one now! Thanks!
Yeah, that’ll depend a fair bit on when the unit is in my hands – likely not till the end of October, and then time for use after that.
Seems to be a fantastic product idea that has fallen a bit short on implementation; I would think that anyone looking for something like this would pay the extra $300 for a KICKR.
The KICKR seems really, really hard to beat at the moment. Even if it is more expensive for us Aussies
If you talk crazy silent this is the one:
link to photo.exsotron.com
What I would like to know:
How does it compare with the CycleOps Silencer which is probably the direct competitor to the Turbo Muin, regarding
– ride feel
– maximum resistance
Although slightly off-topic: the manual of the silencer downloadable from CycleOps says “No-Swing Version”. Anyone who knows what that is supposed to mean?
I suspect CycleOps Silencer and D2R Shadow (you can goggles it) made by same OEM factory from Taiwan. D2R Shadow direct drive and the flywheel resistance unit look identical to Silencer. Except that D2R has a swing-able base like KK Rock&Roll. That should explain the mystery of “no swing version” and some Chinese character in the Silencer manual.
Just a question on base stability? I noticed that all eurobike pictures saw the trainer “bolted” to the floor. Any ideas how stable it will be on the real world?
I got it all setup today, and did a brief test ride. No problems with base stability. At Interbike the unit wasn’t bolted to the floor. Those massive bolts actually go into the base supports. You put it together yourself (as I did today).
is the app file compatible with strava. i doubt it though
from reading the manuals from the elite website, it seems there are nothing electronic/sensors on the trainer itself. The only sensor needed is a 3rd party ANT+ speed sensor to transmit to the ipad/iphone with the My E-Training apps. Correct me if i am wrong. Thanks
I have ordered the trainer. I “rode” it at the bikemotion expo, felt great, very silent (I live in an appartment and can only train late in the evening) and costs “only” 431 euro (at bikeinn in spain), price has since risen a bit again. It is being shipped at the moment so I have no experiences yet with the software options but it seems from this preview that an elite (exclusive?) ANT+ pickup is included. On trainerroad they do not have a profile yet for this machine and offcourse it does not have electronic braking so closed loop feedback is never possible but I have also ordered the wahoo ANT dongle for my ipad(3) and the VIIIVA heartrate sensor (which can pick up any ANT+ signal neighboring it and convert it to Bluetooth) so I am eagerly awaiting DC rainmakers in depth review on the “3rd” party integration (tweaking) functionality of this machine as well.
No, it doesn’t transmit ANT+ power, just private-ANT to the adapter for their app.
Not sure I’m getting the whole picture here. Do I care if it’s Ant+ if I’m using a Quark powermeter?
No, not in that case (since you’d already be getting power from that instead).
The iphone ANT adapter – presumably it plugs into the ‘power in’ slot of the iPhone? Hard to see where else it could go…
Est ce que dans la course map la résistance de l’homme trainer augmente ou est ce que c’est normal ( comme sur le plat ) ?
No, the unit doesn’t increase resistance in a controlled way, rather, only when you change gearing or cadence (and thus speed). Speed controls resistance, ultimately.
A quick question: what domi need to get ANT dongle onto new iPhone/iPad Mini with small Apple connector?
Any suggestions appreciated?
what you need is an Apple Lightning to 30 pin adapter. The small Apple connector you mention is called Lightning and the Ant+ dongle uses the older 30 pin connection that iPhone/iPads used to use. There are two types, one is about the same size as the Ant+ dongle, the other has a bit of a cable on the Lightning connection side. Both types would do the job fine.
I have power cranks, a Garmin 500.
Do i NEED the ANzt donlge and Elite power/cadence bits and bobs!
I want to use the Elite app
Well, I have the machine for a couple of weeks now, it is not as silent as expected, but still glad I got this on from a sound point of view, I couldn’t imagine having an even noisier machine in an appartment. No complaints from the neighbours so far! I would get the matching elite rubber mat, looks great, works much better then a soaking wet beachtowel for protecting your floor.
I’ve got seperate speed and cadence sensors (by minoura) as i have no need for a speed sensor when training outdoor, but this doesn’t work 🙁 i tested it with the wahoo dongle app, i get either speed or cadance but not combined, the elite app can’t recognize them, not even when combined into Bluetooth via the 4iiii viiiiva heartrate strap (which is a mighty fine product in itself) the 4i app works great, but no power measuring for me. Bummer.
which Speed Sensor is working best with the Turbo Muin, is there a special one that fits best? Can I use any ANT+Dongle for the My E-training app on the Iphone?
I also thinking of buying a Wahoo Kickr but in Germany the Kickr is about 700€ more, is it worth it?
Just any combined sensor will work, i now bought the wahoo one but i need to modify it as the cable is not long enough to fit both sensors in the required poisition. Take note to buy one with at least 15cm of cable between the two sensors. I will now need to cut and solder to lengthen the cable.
Get the wahoo ant+ dongle! the cheaper garmin one only works with garmin hard/software and is thus not usefull (at all).
The kicker is worth the extra 700 i feel, but it is also much louder, if you live in an appertment I feel the kicker is not an option.
Well, there doesn’t seem to be any combined sensor with a wire longer then 10cm available at all.
So factory default it seems it is just impossible to use elites own app, there just isn’t any sensor that Will work. Grrrrrrrr.
The current wahoo one has a very thick shielded cable with two very thin inner wires (no seperate shielding) i have sofar been unable to lengthen them and get both sensors to work without fault. Grrrrrrrrr times two.
This is just stupid.
Yeah, I just barely got it to work, and by just barely, I mean it’s about as tight as possible, going to the same drive-side where I put the cadence sensor there. It’s a bit odd, non-desirable, but it works. I’d agree, I’d like to see them support multiple sensors – one for cadence, and one for speed.
I have had this unit for 2 weeks now. Combination of Wahoo Ant+ Dongle, Elite wired speed and cadence sensor, and the Elite iPad App (on DC Rainmakers DIY iPad stand) – yes I’m a fan.
I struggled to get the speed sensor to pickup data, but in the end that’s now working. I have taped it to the body of the muin and will remove the cadence pickup from the bike each time I need to use it on rollers or outdoors (it’s going to be a pain, but that’s only one issue I have).
I don’t believe the data that’s being produced in the Elite app. I can’t produce more than 120watt output, and I know when using a Wattbike I can comfortably hold 230-250watt. Now how do you troubleshoot that one? The only way I can think of to actually prove it would be to put a bike with crank meter or pedal meter to compare – which I don’t have. I have opened a case with Elite via e-mail and will wait for their response.
Justin looks like you & I have the same issues:
1. The recommended speed/cadence sensor is not fit for purpose with the Turbo Muin & the Elite My Training App. It is not possible (at least in my case) to affix the cadence magent to the drive side crank due to chain clearance issues & the sensor wire isn’t long enough to stretch to the non-drive side. This means that you cannot simultaneously record speed & cadence. This is a deal breaker since so much stationary trainer work is around cadence.
2. Elite power estimation is massively under called. I just did the sufferfest rubber glove FTP test. My threshold HR is 172BPM & my wattage is 119 (meaning my threshold would actually be X 0.95=113). Pretty disappointing wattage for a 34 83kg, 187cm rider!
I have emailed Elite about these 2 issues however have yet to receive a response. I think the guys at Elite have been arriving at work a little late, leaving a little early, & been having too long a lunch in between on this one.
I have ordered the Sunnto USB Ant + & plan to give trainer road a go. As I understand it can deal with inputs from multiple ant transmitters unlike this dumb Elite app. If this is the case I can get cadence from the Garmin GSC10 already on my bike & I hope that their virtual power is more accurate than the Elite App.
One question I have is if trainer road works with multiple ant inputs can I move to another alternative for the speed sensor? I read elsewhere someone taking about sticking directly to the trainer a bontrager speed trap sensor. Will this work? If so I’d rather do that & get this stupid “elite sensor” off my bike.
I think Elite owes me a refund on the app subscription, the speed/cadence sensor which doesn’t work with the Muin, the wahoo dongle I had to buy & the Apple lightening adaptor I needed to make that work with my iPad 4.
@Peter: I just had the same power measurement under-estimated issue
I have different sensor (from Wahoo) and I can tell you the sensor is not the problem.
you may have noticed that in the settings of my e-training app there is under the selection of the trainer (Turbo muin) a value that appears to be defaulted to 2070. This value seems to be the circumference of the internal flywheel or so. My opinion is that it is simply wrong, because I have chosen another fluid trainer in the settings and the value was unchanged.
When I set it to something around 3000 I got more realistic watt measurement.
The key would be to be able to get the right value from Elite support, because otherwise this app settings defaults are just crap and make it totally useless…
thanks for your feedback. Has anyone tested if the cycelops dual Sensor will work, i can’t find anything how long it cable is link to cycleops.com
Maybe i will buy one and test it by my self, how exactly i have to install it on the Turbo muin?
The connecting wire looks about the same length. I don’t think it will be long enough & you will run in to same issue as the rest of us.
I have been in communication now with Elite & I must say they have been really helpful. We still haven’t resolved the cadence sensor placement constraints but Elite are going to post me a small magnet to place on the drive side crank arm. Hopefully that will clear the chain & still trigger the cadence sensor.
Now on to the power wattage. In order to initially match the Turbo Muin with the Elite training app it is essential that you input the unique serial of your trainer (a sticker on the leg). However, what has now happened is that rather than my output being pathetically low I know am capable of Chris Froome efforts & am considering sending my data to Team Sky for evaluation. Maybe I can still make the tour team. Something isn’t right.
where you able to make elite’s own app work/start with only a working speed sensor picking up data? I thought that as I am not connecting a dual (speed and cadence) sensor (as I can’t get mine to work due to my crappy diy skills (I have more or less destroyed one wahoo combined speed/cadence sensor already by cutting the wire and not being able to succesfully lengthen them) the app will just not work at all, it seems not to get through the set-up phase as I am not inputting both speed and cadence.
Also elite is not replying on my e-mail at all. I already send one out while I was still in the orienting phase (for buying a trainer) and just recently another informing them of my “adventures”. Nothing, just total silence.
Actually yes it works as long as you are pedalling and the sensors have switched themselves on. I have managed to get mine working by putting some serious stretch into the cable so that reaches over the to the non drive chain stay & it picks up my Garmin cadence magnet. I need to keep adjusting it as the wire pulls the cadence sensor back out or of position over time.
When setting up you need to input your trainers serial number printed on the sticker on the leg. Then search for sensors and select the one positioned on the muin (this is as important for me as the app is also picking up the signal from my Garmin gsc10).
So mine is now working but the power data estimates from the Elite app are flattery to say the least. The estimated wattage is huge!
I reckon you’ve just broken the wahoo sensor in your attempts to DIY it.
Based on my experience with the Lemond, they should have mounted the flywheel speed sensor on the housing like Lemond did. Once you have an Ant+ speed signal, there are plenty of apps (such as Performance Pro) that will pick up the Ant signal and convert it to power. Then you run decent traing software such as the Sufferfest etc and have all of your data real time. I know folks bash the Lemond for its hoise but the ride feel of it is quite nice. There is no limit to how much power you need to put on it. The idea of direct drive trainer needing to add resistance is just plain stupid because if you want more resistance you either pedal faster or put the bike in a higher gear. Just like the real world.
I had my first workout on my new muin in trainerroad yesterday. I’m using the wahoo blue sc sensor mounted on the seat stay and a small magnet on my heel under a bit of tape. I got credible watts numbers but they kept jumping up and down for as much as 30 watts per second even if I focused on smooth pedaling. It got a lot better with the power smoothing option but isn’t that a bit much? My second problem was when I downloaded the workout and uploaded it to strava, they converted my ~300 watts to ~25km/h. Anyone experiencing they same things or have a clue how to solve them?
Thanks in advance
The power output using the Elite app or trainerroad (they use the elite curve) is massively overstated. However for me it is at least quite stable & not jumping around.
I don’t even bother to look at speed as it’s not useful for turbo training and it’s completely inaccurate.
just saw on wiggle main description (link to wiggle.co.uk) that the flywheel has a diameter of 197mm, that would give a circumference of 309,4 mm.
It appears that the circumference of 2070 mm given by the app for the Muin is simply not possible, it would give a diameter of 659 mm which is clearly something that would not fit in the flywheel container.
So at the moment my conclusion is that the unit for the circumference is not mm (seems to be 1mm/10), and that the right value to give the app is 3094.
I sent through a screenshot of the iPad Elite Trainer app setup as part of my ongoing troubleshoot with Elite technical support.
Response: “we have found a bug on the app, it will be solved on the next app version.
To solve the problem now, please insert the value 10100 on the serial number”
I’m mot sure that this is an accurate fix. But probably changes the flywheel size to more accurately match up with the Muin.
I was wrong in my calculation, 197.5mm of diameter gives 620.5mm of circumference, and so a realistic value for the app diameter of 6205 (or 620 if the unit is really mm). I will test it soon.
Thanks a lot Justin, I will test this setting.
Hope the next app version will not come with new stupid bugs.
Just tested in the app the fix suggested by Elite, the point is that changing the S/N of the trainer does not change the flywheel size value.
I think that this value was just hardcoded in the app whatever the selected trainer is and that obviously it will be wrong whatever the trainer you choose.
I just put in the fly wheel diameter of 0197mm and it seems spot on.
I have a set of PowerTap P1s for power , power from the B+ is about 40-50watts more
Justin, for me it solved the problem, I put 10100 as S/N and put back 2070 as circumference (although it is really a strange value) and wattage is now more realistic.
I think DC needs to come with the review & feedback to Elite!! I am sure they will listen.
DC–any idea when this will be?
Just a quick heads up on a few items as I just heard from the Elite folks.
1) An app release went out that’s live as of today on the store. It includes a bunch of changes, but the two biggest ones are:
A) The serial number issue has been resolved, correct calibration values should now be there
B) You can now export in .TCX format – perfect for upload to anything on this planet
2) They’ve got some new speed/cadence sensors they’re working on with a modified cable length that will be applied to new units going forward. Peter above got one of those new sensors.
Have a good weekend!
Thanks DC, good news!
but does this mean that when you from now on buy a turbomuin it will include a combined speed/cadence sensor (with elongated cable between the two) as previously it was just the turbo muin in the box and no speed/cadence sensor at all.
Can people who already own the turbomuin (like me) also ask for this at elite? (I already purchased 2 different sensors (one with too short (the industry standard it seems) a cable and 1 with seperate sensors (which is not supported in app) and I don’t feel like spending another 50 euro on a “turbomuin” speed/cadence sensor (with longer interconnecting wire). I haven’t send any e-mails to Elite about this but they failed to reply to my two previous e-mails (which I feel where very fair and valid to put forward to them).
My understanding is going forward that’s the plan. As for ringing up Elite, you could, that’s what Peter did above.
Is the Muin
1 – The quietest trainer available
2 – A nice trainer to ride
3 – Recommended for apartment dwellers
#1: Yes, I believe so based on all the trainers I’ve played with
#2: It’s good, but this is subjective. To each their own.
#3: As an apartment dweller, the people downstairs haven’t yelled yet. But then again, they never yell. Again, a bit subjective.
the Muin or the Kickr what should I buy?
It’s sorta like asking if you should buy a Toyota Prius or a Tesla S Model ….it’s kinda about how big your wallet is.
By the way, Elite is actually VERY quick to react on any mails you send them, just don’t use your hotmail account (I suspect it runs into a spam folder) as these will not be answered at all.
They’ve send me a MS Word document showing how to install a standard combined speed/cadence sensor, just put the entire thing on the “drive side”. So put the speed sensor directly next to the aluminium housing of the flywheel (which has the magnet attached to it) and then simply route the wire forward on your drive side and stick the cadance sensor to the outside of your frame (facing the pedal arm), put the cadance magnet on the chain side pedal arm (inside) and it should work.
Haven’t been able to try it myself yet as my sensor is still in pieces (I cut it up trying to lengthen it) but I think this should work perfectly fine.
They also informed me that yes, seperate (speed and cadence) sensors are not supported in app and they made no promises if this will be done in the future (so don’t expect this to happen).
There’s a lot I don’t completely understand above, especially, regarding power.
I’m interested in the trainer b/c I live in an apartment and want something very quiet. I currently have a cycle ops fluid 2 and Garmin 910 w/HR monitor and train according to HR zones, not power. I also have a speed sensor on the right side (drive train). I upload my results from Garmin Connect to Training Peaks for my coach to review.
I understand that I have to use Elite’s sensor to record data on their app because that sensor (proprietary ANT+) will not register with my Garmin.
So, can I have two sensor’s on my chain stay, one for the Garmin and one for the Elite App? Or is there not enough room for two. Otherwise, (I think):
(i) when I disconnect the bike form the trainer (i.e., ride outside) I won’t be able to capture certain data.
(ii) I won’t be able to upload speed data to GC and TP
Is there a wheel sensor provided by Elite that registers with my iPhone?
Without seeing this first hand, it’s a bit tricky for me to fully grasp.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’d hate to spend the $750+ just for quiet, though I may have to do that.
Actually, it’ll register with your Garmin – there’s no issues doing that (I’ve done exactly that).
So the Muin Trainer now comes with a speed / cadence sensor?
I have been contemplating buying a turbo trainer ie computrainer, wahoo kickr, elite muin. However all I read really is that none of the providers seam to be able to provide a relatively simple bug free machine. Really I want to be able to set my bike up quickly, switch on from a simple menu and train quietly and then analyse my workout. I am not a mechanic or an electrical engineer or tech geek. I want power analysis and video to keep myself amused to stay on the bike. Why is this all so hard. I am prepared to pay for the right outcome.
Hi, have just purchased the muin direct drive turbo trainer and I could do with a bit of advice on a couple of things….
I currently use my garmin GC10 to record my cadence/speed/HR when out cycling. When I use the muin will my GC10 pick my data up as when out on the road ? If not what sensor should I purchase to get the data ?? I currently use Garmin connect to download all my sessions onto my laptop. I do not have an ipad/ipod and I do not wish to purchase one just to use the elite hardware. If anyone can help with all my enquiries I would very much appreciate it….new to this cycling thing since having both knees operated on.
I’m interested in the Turbo Muin, but the lack of native ANT+ bothers me too. I could use the Elite sensor with TrainerRoad (right?), but I’d rather have speed being transmitted directly to my Edge 800, along with heart rate and cadence (like many people around here). I’ve been reading about sticking a separate ANT+ speed sensor to the flywheel housing, reading speed and transmitting it to the Edge. But what I can’t find, is a definitive answer to the question which wheel circumference to use. I’m reading 2070, 3000 and even 6205.
So, my question is: would it be possible to stick, for instance, a bontrager speedtrap to the flywheel housing to transmit speed data directly to the Edge? And if so, what should the wheel circumference be?
If there’s no definitive answer to the latter, would it be possible to test it by using both the Elite speed sensor and an ANT+ speed sensor, then comparing speed in the app and on the Edge, then adjusting the circumference until they show the same speed?
“So, my question is: would it be possible to stick, for instance, a bontrager speedtrap to the flywheel housing to transmit speed data directly to the Edge? And if so, what should the wheel circumference be?
If there’s no definitive answer to the latter, would it be possible to test it by using both the Elite speed sensor and an ANT+ speed sensor, then comparing speed in the app and on the Edge, then adjusting the circumference until they show the same speed?”
I would love to hear answer to this question
What I did was also stick a bontrager speed/cadence ant+ sensor to the flywheel casing. The speed is then transmitted to my Suunto Ambit2. Cadence is not working of course. I’m using the settings from the wheel as if it were directly connected to my wheel, so one rotation of my wheel equals one rotation of my flywheel. I think this should be correct.
Also the Suunto Ambit2 can have a speed to wattage app, so I can have some power information. Maybe not all 100% correct, but it gives me some good insights.
My speed sensor settings are: 2126 mm
Thanks a lot!
I’m planning to use my Garmin speed/cadence sensor (which I normaly use outdoors), to get cadence data, and seperatly Bonetrager speed sensor, to get speed. I hope my fenix2 will manage to do that…
I’ll inform if thats work.
Anything new ?
I am using a Bontrager speed sensor too with duct tape, directly on my Muin. I know that the speed I get is pretty irrelevant. Is there any news about the wheel circumference to use ?
I think all these issues with the sensors can be solved by just getting a power meter.
I have stages power meter and I can just do my intervals with this trainer with power values recorded by Stages.
Problem solved! Right, Ray?
What about new one Real Turbomuin? Will you be able to test it?
Anyone tried out this small modification (extension of GSC-10 swing arm cable):
link to turtleaws3.blogspot.nl
Could save me buying a new speed/cadence sensor!
However, not a fan of opening GSC-10, adding/removing cables, closing back and sealing off the GSC-10 every change of season. Maybe a spiral cord would work, but don’t know if the cord would then act as some sort of coil and of course it will be hard to fit the whole corde inside a closed GSC-10.
Question about Ant+, can I use my Bontrager Ant+ speed/cadence sensor with this trainer to transmit speed data to my Suunto Ambit2?
I found out: yes this works! And the Suunto Ambit2 has an app for that.
Major mistake not having ant+ making there market very narrow indedd
What do you think about Real Turbo Muin ? Will you write a review about it anytime soon?
Yes, you’ll see my comments on it this week (though, I’ve written up posts at Eurobike/Interbike on it).
Have you ever noticed problems between the Garmin 620 HR transmitter and the Elite App ?
The app would not recognize it where it recognizes the 610 one (from a friend).
As I know there are different because the 620 has few other sensors (vert Oscillation and so on) could it be the cause ?
Thank you for the reviews !
Hmm, I haven’t tried it with it to be honest. I’ve only heard of one other case where a HRM-RUN strap was challenging with a different device (really old CycleOps bike computer), but then it turned out to be a false positive.
Just bought a turbo muin, going to run the misuro sensor with Bluetooth to trainer road to a laptop. Will post my experience if you’re interested
I have got an Elite Muin and the build / set up have been easy. Attached an ant+ sensor to the muin body and it connected to the Elite My E Training app straight away using my Android phone.
Can anyone please confirm to me what the wheel circumference should be. As per above I set it to 2070 (the default setting) but on emailing Elite they have said change it to 2094.
As people have experienced above, the power output seems relatively accurate, but the speed is very low.
You should get the wheel sizes from your actual wheel. I checked the size of my tire and got the mm from there. Al list like this from the tire manufacturer could help: link to schwalbetires.com
Mathijs, some question on that, isn’t the power & speed depended on the actual position of the magnet inside the housing? distance from axle to magnet * force = power? The distance you’re talking about would not necessarily be the actual distance of the magnet placement.
1st Ride on the Turbo Muin = all ok. bit of sound but talking normally is definately louder. Plenty power running with 53×19 intervals. Sensor still to come
is the ELITE Muin noiser/quiter than Bkool ????
thks and regrds
my Turbo Muin is already somewhere in DPD truck so thinking about setting up the “system” ..
is it going to work it with GSC-10 without any hacking ?
or do I need to buy some kind of new cadence/speed sensor from Elite (the one with longer wire?)
my setup: PC/Mac, Trainerroad, Garmin 510 (no ios device and no android with ant+)
I have the Turbo Muin.
The best way to train on ur Muin is to get a power meter on ur bike and connect it to ur garmin. Forget about the Real App. Do ur intervals using the workout option in ur garmin.
powermeter is on my wishlist ;-)) waiting for 4iiii’s powermeter to be available again …
understand that Elite app is a trash – have a Realtour too and it can train with the app but nothing comparable to real world
I bought the Muin because direct drive is the way to go. And nothing beats fluid resistance. I like the lower noise too.
Training with Stages power.
When you have a powermeter on the bike, you dont need power from the turbo.
I already have Stages power meter and now considering the direct drive trainer.
Due to the price my focus is now around the Muin but Ray summarized above that in order to increase the load, you have to gear up.
On Kickr however, the trainer does that load variations…
What is your experience on this?
How is your power training with shifting up & down?
Do you train in TrainerRoad?
Anyone experiences oil leak in your Muin? I did. Not a lot but noticeable.
Ive taken the precautionary measure of blowing my fan full blast at the Muin to help it cool better.
link to chainreactioncycles.com
reviews section, from user stusom:
An excellent product spoiled by the fact that it is leaking oil.
Very well designed and very stable during use.
I have used the Elite Turbo Muin Fluid Trainer every day since purchase up until discovering the oil leak.
I am presently in Saudi Arabia and will return to UK in March when I will return the item for repair.
If your unit is leaking, you should contact Elite and get it swapped out. Full stop, end of story, it’s defective.
After few rides, very happy with the muin. Silent plenty resistance. Virtual power is interesting. Elite setting from helpdesk 2095, trainer road setting from help desk 2070. Comparing trainerroad afterwards withhttp://www.powercurvesensor.com/cycling-trainer-power-curves/ the stated SRM curve from elite at 27 km/h the curve states 325 W trainer road actuals approx. 268W.
Decided just to take the values as is from the apps and take that they do no necessary relate to actual road values. RPE stays the same!
i was wondering which sensor to get.
Misuro Blu seems the one to pick, though the Smart Blue Tooth is a bit cheaper
I guess you have to atttach this last one also to the bike, and Misuro Blu is straight onto the the trainer.
I took the Wahoo sensor in the end as the misuro blu seemed not available. In the end I just put the sensor with double sided tape on the trainer itself and it works fine. I guess any bluetooth smart sensor will do
Hi Diederik are you saying that Elite help desk told you the flywheel should be 2095? As opposed to the default 2070?
is there a way how to setup Turbo Muin with 2 Garmin Speed/Cadence GSC-10?
I need to use one sensor directly on the trainer to be able to get speed / virtual power and than I have a second sensor (normal mount placement on bike) … no power meter yet ;-((
at the moment I’m unable in any app or garmin headunit to pick speed from one sensor and cadence from another … I use one Garmin Edge computer as cadence monitor from #1 GSC10 and software in PC (Trainerroad) to monitor power from #2 GSC10… but I’d prefer to use it together if somehow possible
any idea how to solve this problem?
Thats not possible! Actually I use the new Garmin TF-Sensor (crank) and a SIGMA ANT+ speed sensor (matching with ROX10) fitted on the TurboMuin.
The GSC is always sending TF and Speed, but you can’t disable one of these sensors. Only single sensors can solve this problem!
First of all: Thanks a lot to the author for this excellent post and your helpful discussions!
Has anybody tried to mount a cervelo s5 or any other bike with oversized rear stays onto the turbo muin?
The left rear stay touches the metal housing of the turbo muin, which seems to be too wide for the s5 frame. NOT GOOD.
Any experiences or solutions?
Cervelo S5 and Cervelo P4 does not fit at the Turbo Muin.
I’m planning on buying this trainer, but before I do I have a question for whoever wants to help me:
Can I use my Garmin Edge (with the included speed/cadence sensor) to see speed and cadence?
Thanks in advance!
You can stick the sensors to the trainer around the flywheel there is a magnet inside the flywheel, so that will work with your current devices.
I might want to sell my Elite Turbo Muin, interested?
Yes you can. You get true cadence reading and UNCALIBRATED speed on your garmin edge.
If you can afford a Muin, you can afford a powermeter. Get a powermeter for your bike to get power readings on your garmin when you use the Muin.
Are you still considering selling your Elite Turbo Muin? I would be interested…
Hi, I ordered the new Ant+ Sensor for my MUIN trainer, but actually it does not always connect to my garmin device. Sometimes sensor search can’t find the Misuro device. Does somebody else have the same sensor & problems?
Seems like a great product, particularly with the way they’ve thought ways to reduce stress on the rear of the bike with oscillated technology of the actual unit. Are there going to be additional Muin reviews? Their support is also quite good I noticed.
Hi, nice review
I’m thinking about buying a power meter, a bike computer and an indoor trainer because I think for training purposes (no races yet) they’re more important than spending a lot of money on a new and shiny bike.
Is it possible to just use a Turbo Muin with a stages power meter, a garmin edge 510 and a garmin speed and cadence sensor which would already be on my bike; and not using the App. I know that I wouldn’t have speed monitoring because there is no rear wheel, but I’m just interested in cadence and power?
I hope you could clear this up
This is exactly what Im doing. Stages powermeter, garmin 510, turbo muin. Thats all you need. You will still get cadence from stages powermeter.
Thanks for the reply!
I also have Stages power meter and now considering the direct drive trainer, like Muin.
Due to the price my focus is now around the Muin but Ray summarized above that in order to increase the load, you have to gear up.
On Kickr however, the trainer does that load variations… (but more expensive)
What is your experience on this?
How is your power training with shifting up & down?
Do you train in TrainerRoad?
Yes you have to gear up in other to increase the resistance. The key here is to have proper gearing so that any shift up in gear does not cause the resistance to increase so much such that your cadence drops too much. What you mean is a small increase in resistance everytime you shift up. This is so that you can maintain your targetted cadence (90-95 rpm for me) when you increase your power.
I have found that for us amatuers (I have an FTP of about 250W), the magic gearing for Turbo Muin is to have a compact chainring (50/34) and a 12-23 or 11-23 cogset. Try it. Standard 53-39 chainring may cause a change in resistance that is too big each time.
Most below 300W watts workouts, you may need to use a 30T instead of a 34T. Once you go above 300W, 50T will be nice.
I have my own power training plan which I got from Training Peaks. When I do my workout, I just memorise what power requirements I need to do for that workout. I don’t use trainer road and don’t find that necessary. Most of the time I watch TV or do zwift while I do my workout.
The Muin also has enough resistance to do big gears workouts as well. 300W+ at 60-70 rpm is not a problem.
How’s the Muin for me? I game changer. I am on my trainers almost every weekday and I’m loving it. It’s the SMOOTHEST trainer I’ve ever had and for me, nothing beats fluid direct drive.
With Stages, my source of HR, power, and cadence display is my Garmin 510 and frankly, that’s all you need in power training. You can also have that displayed on zwift as well, if you know how that works.
Also I think the Real Turbo Muin does not really measure your power output that accurately. I think it is still estimated from a known resistance curve which it calculates through its Elite App.
Ray, can you verify this?
So I think the best way is still to use a power meter that you have on your bike, so that you don’t have power offset issues when you ride on the road, ie comparing 300W on Elite Real Turbo Muin and 300W on the road.
The Real Turbo Muin does not have that much of an edge in terms of serious training. Its more of the fun factor.
The Turbo Muin (not the Real Turbo Muin) with a power meter is more than enough (with the right chainring/cogset size) for a serious pave cave equipment.
Basically that’s what I came to as well. I even asked about it repeatedly with data, and essentially was told that was it.
So…that’s where I left it.
Just wondered if anyone has tried using this with their Garmin for speed as well as cadence and power? I’m assuming it would work (with a bit of fiddling with the ant+ sensor location). I’m not that bothered about using the Elite software as I just want a sturdy trainer that will take some hammer – as opposed to the cheaper ones I’ve been using and last less than a year.
Also, does anyone know whether the flywheel magnet is positioned just on the cassette side or both sides?
First comment on here – love the site.
I am trying to follow what’s a bit of a confusing set up that elite have. I have a turbo muin and want to use virtual power with trainerroad running on my pc – I have no interest in their app. If I understand correctly from comments above there are 3 options:
1.Elite speed and cadence sensor bluetooth version (as ant+ produces a signal that only Elite app picks up?) but these are fiddly/impossible to install. Though it does look like on Elite website that there is a 20cm version now?
2. Get a Misuro Blu or Misuo Plus which would both connect to my pc via bluetooth. The Misuro just sticks to the Turbo Muin and using a magnet measures speed and cadence I think. Trainerroad can then do its thing and provide virtual power data.
3. I could do a home brew job and tape on a garmin etc sensor to get speed which trainer road could pick up using laptop and Ant+ dongle. Wahoo bluetooth sensor would prob be easier. I would not get speed and cadence this way though.
Have I understood how it is?!
The Misuro seems simpler to set up than speed and cadence sensor. Has anyone got the misuro blu or plus set up ok?
I think my Garmin 510 will be useless for speed and cadence because Elite ant+ speed and cadence sensor on channel only Ant+ can use?
Thanks for any pointers!
I’m currently using an Elite Misuro+ with Garmin Ant+ Cadence sensor (not GSC10), on my laptop I got an ant+ plus stick. This Setup works perfectly using e.g. Zwift.
I’m currently using an Elite Misuro+ with Garmin Ant+ Cadence sensor (not GSC10), on my laptop I got an ant+ plus stick. This Setup works perfectly using e.g. Zwift.
Elite Turbo Muin with disassembled GSC10 and some items from local Dyi store 🙂
Well I bought a MUin and feel a bit disappointed.
IS the unit supposed to sound like a washing machine when you spin up? The sound is obviously the flywheel moving through the oil but I would have thought that at some point the noise would subside but there’s still a bubbling noise coming from teh unit. Is this right and does everyong else get the same thing.
Then I tried my Garmin with two transamitters/sensors – one Decathlon ANT+ and the Garmin GSC10. But nothing, not even a slight pick-up of the flywheel sensor and I’ve spent an age holding the transmitter at different places, different angles…you name it. It just seems as though there’s no flywheel magnet inside.
Has anyone had a similar experience or any idea about the above.
Mine makes similar bubbling noise that dies away after 10 secs or so. I get an occasional sloshing noise.
I have got my GSC10 to pick up the fly wheel. I just placed it at the back of the unit. My Garmin edge 510 picks up the GSC10 in the speed data field.
My plan now I back off holiday is to attach the GSC10 – with sticky tabs I bought today – and try and connect to trainer road on my laptop via a USB ant+ stick.
Over the weekend I will put a photo on of exactly where I place GSC10 if that helps.
I’d really like cadence too but I think that might only be possible with Wahoo’s Bluetooth device. £50 seems indulgent especially if I have misunderstood some of comments above and PC won’t pick up Wahoo and GSC10.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I’ve tried the sensor all over the flywheel casing and still nothing. The only place I actually got a reading was when I placed it over the fan casing then it showed spurious numbers.
I can’t help but think that the magnet has either come loose or this is a dodgy unit and there isn’t one on there in the first place. So, I’m in two minds of taking it apart and checking. don’t really want to send it back as I bought it from France and too much messing about with being in the UK. Will contact Elite and find out whether they’ll invalidate the warranty if I do take it apart.
What a pain!!
Just thought I’d give an update on the Muin. After getting in touch with Elite, they’ve informed me that I have the latest version – this doesn’t have a flywheel magnet, it is positioned on the fan and can only be used with the Misuro (recommended B+) sensor. This clips under the fan by one of the red covers. Though they did say that it provides the data to ANT+ devices and not just the e-training app. It’s obviously going to look neater than having trailing wires all over the place but will be interesting if it actually sends the data to the Garmin.
Did you get an exact instruction as to where to place the sensor? I’m in the same situation as you but dealing with elite is a slow process. Ironically I bought this trainer so I wouldn’t have and issues with software etc but I’m just about ready to box it up and send it back.
I know what you mean, i thought it would be a simple process of just attaching the sensor (albeit convoluted) and away. Unfortunately it means more expense buying the Misuro (hopefully though it will work out OK – won’t know until it arrives and try it).
The other thing for the Misuno sensor I found when I was chasing around UK stores – they’re not in stock (even with the UK distributor) until the back-end of September; I ended up ordering mine from Rose in Germany.
When I got in touch with Elite I sent the serial numbers as well and that’s what made the difference with being able to tell the models apart. However, it is pretty poor that there was absolutely nothing in the manual or anything else on the web that actually mentions the changes.
Here’s the text from the Elite guy and I’ve included the pics he sent me plus mine from the Muin. Hope it all helps.
after seen your pictures, we inform that you have the last version of TurboMuin, with reading of datas near the red fan. So, we confirm that there isn’t a magnet on free wheel as older version and you can’t use Garmin sensors to read the datas.
This version of Turbomuin allows to read the datas such speed and cadence only with our sensor for trainers Misuro B+ (link to elite-it.com)
and also give the Power data, not only with our app My E-Training, but also with other device with ANT+ Power protocol and Bluethoot Smart Ready protocol.”
You have been more help than the 5 responses that elite have sent me. They don’t seam to believe I have a 2016 model. I bought the misuro b+ at the time of buying the trainer from bike 24 in Germany. I can get a signal but it shows me doing 140mph in 39/25 ! There is a little button inside the sensor which you press to set it to your trainer. It’s 2 for the muin but that may be for the old placement on the previous model.
Update time, I need a figure to set the circumference at. It’s whatever the fan is. The default wheel size is what is giving the awesome readings.
I was wondering about that; it might up being a case of trial and error – unless Elite have that info to hand. I’ve emailed the guy any how to ask.
Another thing. Are you going to use the sensor with the e-training app or through a Garmin or Golden Cheetah or something. I’m hoping from what the guy said in the email that it will work with any ANT+/ Bluetooth Smart app/unit.
Another Update: Misuro arrived and had same problem with over reading. Going through the instructions for the sensor and come to the conclusion that using the Misuro guidelines only works if you’re using the e-training app (though I can’t cross check with not having an appropriate device). I also think the guidelines are for the previous models and not the 2015 versions – so would be interesting what the equivalent metrics are. Instead it looks like you set the numbers to the diameter of the fan – I’m using 170mm and it seems roughly what I would expect.
Other thing. My Garmin has detected the Power sensor but with ridiculous numbers – it’s probably not a Misuro issue but more to do with the relevant algorythm. Have you tried using this?
Finaly, have you gotten anywhere with Cadence? the Misuro states it measures it but I’m assuming this is another algorythm thing. Can’t get the Garmin to recognize the Cadence sensor (though that being said it’s a combined unit), which is probably the issue.
I have been told to return my misuro blue+ to Italy to have it uploaded with the latest software. Just had a quick look at the elite video posted on YouTube from bike radar and the packaging on the new misuro blue does indeed look different to what I received. I think elite should stick to bottles and cages in the future.
I was getting power, cadence and speed on both the elite app and Trainer Road. I had to set the trainer to elite turbo muin (quark) setting on TR. I’m pretty sure it was working fine though. I just needed the correct circumference from elite.
Hello guys, I have started using the turbo muin home trainer with the combo-sensor echowell speed-cadence (ANT+) and the heart beat sensor. Everything is reading well on “my e-training” (speed, cadence, heart beat) but the power is getting crazy by showing only 24 W and decreases to 22 W with full power pedaling and once i stop pedaling the power value increases to 33 W.
I tried to change the serial number from 10370 (my S/N) to 10100 with a different circumference 2095 or 2070, but the problem remains the same, power value range is always btw 22 and 33 W –> decrease with pedaling and increase after i stop.
Your help would be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Misuro B+ returned from Italy after taking a month. Updated instructions and a new figure to input for the circumference.
Power – 40w more than stages
Speed – about 2km/hr at 250www(that’s actual speed, not out by 2km/hr)
I think I will return it if bike 24 will take it back.
Also it isn’t that quiet!
Chris. Just wanted to mention that I got mine back as well after sending it back and used their ‘new’ settings…they don’t work and I had the same problem as you. Solution. Changed the circumference to 190 rather than using the formula. Once I did that it made a massive difference and both through the Garmin and TrainerRoad was showing the speed pretty much spot on.
I just glued a magnet in the Flyer wheel. Works perfect .
I’m trying to use my 2013 Turbo Muin with my Cannondale Slice RS Time Trial Bike, but it doesn’t fit on the trainer. Since my warranty-time is over I’m asking me if it is possible to grind off some of the housing without affecting the function of the trainer. i don’t know what is behind the housing where I need to grind because I can’t find any exploded view of turbo muin trainer.
See the pictures and tell me what you think.
link to dropbox.com
link to dropbox.com
link to dropbox.com
If it is not possible I think I will have to switch to another direct drive trainer.
Thanks in advance
hello, I wanted to know if you can use app MY E-trainig, with KICKR.
I bought a elite turbo muin misuro B+ and i have the following problem :
The speed appears to be correct when i use the iPad app.
However, when i use Garmin edge, the speed is wrong, 110kmh, 6kmh etc
Can you help me with this?
Has anyone tried to connect turbo muin with Misuro B+ to the Garmin Fenix 3?
Bump! Except Fenix 5? Anyone?
Thanks Ray for the review. It was really helpful to me.
I’m using the Elite Turbo Muin (Not B+). With a Wahoo ANT+ Speed and Cadence sensor hooked up to my Cannondale Synapse 105 road bike together with my Garmin Edge 1000 for keeping track of my rides on Garmin Connect. I’m also using the Mio Link for optical Heart rate.
I’m riding on Zwift at the same time! Everything works great! I tried out a Wahoo Kickr (Newest Version) and returned it. I liked the Turbo Muin better!! It’s really quiet plus it’s less than half the price of the Kickr!! I’ve logged over 250 miles now on Zwift and couldn’t be happier with the way trainer/Sensors work together with the program! I’m in the process of setting up a few friends with the same setup I have so they can ride virtually with me. I highly recommend this trainer! It’s my first and am over the moon happy with it!
O, my wife uses it too. We just switch off our bikes. She has a 2012 Trek Madone Carbon. Although we can’t ride at the same time it works because she’s a morning person and I work out in the evening.
Feel free to ask me any questions about my setup and I’ll be glad to answer.
Thanks for your comment!
I have one question – do you have real power meter or you use Zpower curve in Zwift? If you are on Zpower, how accurate results are? Are you super fast, super slow or just pretty normal in Zwift compared to other people with real power sources (real PMs, smart trainers)?
I’m using Zpower curve with Zwift.
I’d call myself a middle of the pack rider. In decent shape but by no means as fast as some of the Elite riders. I’m proud of the rides that average 18 MPH or over!
The power numbers for me are just that. Numbers. With Zpower I can compare one ride to the next very well and judge my laziness/effort very well. I find Zpower to be accurate and consistent enough for my kind of riding. A real power meter is so crazy expensive and does virtually the same thing.
hope this helps and happy riding.
Still love my setup!
Bought the Elite turbo Muin in November SN above 30000. Later in november i wanted to get some data readings from the trainer and bought the Misuro blu+.
The readings was way off and also blocked my cadence sensor from the garmin 520.
Contacted Elite which were very helpful. Misuro Blu+ doesnt work with Turbo Muin with SN above 30000.
Was told to send the Misuro Blu+ to them and they would change / reprogram and send it back to me.
10 days after I had send my misuro Blu+ to Elite i got it back again. Still I couldnt get it to work. I then thought that maybe they had changed the print to a Misuro B+. Found the manual for misuro b+ on the net and sure enough, some difference there.
The settings is done with the number of blinks the misuro gives. The misuro blu+ had up to 12 blinks. the misuro b+ up to 14. Think it was 13 blinks I had to set it to. (forgot now, but is all there in the manual).
Got the Misuro put into the little place behind the fan, connected perfectly to my garmin 520. calculated accordingly to what was said in the Manual and things just works perfectly.
Even though the sensor still comes up as a speed and cadence sensor from the misuro, it doesnt block the cadence sensor from garmin.
The power readings match perfectly the power curve.
I live in Denmark and weather during winter is not very nice. Especially for me as a heavy sweater during exercise it would cost me a lot of money to get the right cothing for cycling in the winter month. So i wought that a trainer would be ideal. After a lot of research i decided on the Elite Turbo Muin, could not afford the Real Turbo Muin, so went for the cheapest.
I never had a trainer before so of course can not compare. I can just say that I am very happy I got the turbo muin. its excellent for training. After having solved the misuro data issue its just a gem to use.
I hardly turn up the volume during exercise. The trainer is really quiet. VERY quiet.
The resistance is smoothly and power curve well made, all dependent on the speed. Very stable frame, can easy do standing sprint.
No tire wear. I dont have to think about tires, slipping, tire pressure etc.
The tire thingy and the quietness was the two main reasons i went for the Turbo Muin and I certainly dont regret. Little pricy maybe, but well worth the money.
Have connected to Strava, so if you want to see the power reading you are welcome to go take a look.
can find me under the name : EyasTheBad
Also posted the rides with the title : Elite Turbo Muin
Not sure if you can find them via a search. i did search strava for Turbo Muin, but no result showed up.
Dont yet have another power meter, so not able to compare, but think its fairly accurate.
Yes, the power is speed dependent, but as the Turbo Muin doesnt really freewheel and stops within few seconds when stopped pedaling, I really dont consider that an issue. I intend to get the Stages power meter and then I can compare, but think the power meters in general are way overpriced. So might take some month before consider to buy one. (A Stages Power Meter is the same price as I paid for the Elite Turbo Muin plus the Misuro blu+).!!!
First time on here. I have been reading all the posts with interest as I have been looking at buying the Turbo Muin Trainer. I’m slightly confused about the sensor debate.
I have a Trek Emonda bike and it has a bontranger duotrap S speed sensor which is ANt+ & Bluetooth attached to the purpose built slot in the frame of the bike. I use this on the road with my Garmin 510 and it works perfectly. Could someone tell me if I need to get the extra sensor for the turbo trainer or will it work with the one I have.
As I understand it the magnet is in the flywheel of the Muin and their sensor attaches to the frame so it can read that magnet. Well if I already have a sensor on my frame and my magnet is attached to my crank arm which passes my sensor, why do I need their extra sensor somewhere else on my bike?
Am I being stupid or do I need the extra parts. If all I want is my data being sent to my garmin all I have effectively done is remove my back wheel and set it onto a turbo trainer, my data should still be sent in the normal way to my garmin should’t it?
Thanks very much and I look forward to your comments
Not supporting Ant+/Bluetotth is definitely a big minus but I assume if you have power meter on pedals or on crank arms, then you wouldn’t need it anyways, right?
Ray do you know the difference between the Elite and Quarq power profiles.
Reason being that in the past I’ve used the Elite profile but broke my laptop and the TR only has two options now, Turbo Muin and Turbo Muin Pre 2013. The Turbo Muin option defaults to the Quarq one and the Elite one I have used previously is no more. The difference may only be psychological but it seems harder and I suspect would be non comparable to my TR history.
Hmm, I’m not sure there.
But, I can say that if you drop a note to the TrainerRoad support folks, they can probably even give you a report on the exact differences.
I have a Stages that I used to compare power readings with my Elite Muin B+. The difference was about 30 to 40W and it was quite consistent from low to higher power values. Did you happen to get feedback from TrainerRoad support as Ray suggested?
I just unboxed the TM B+.
I want to use it only with the 910XT. I only wanna have power, pedal frequency and speed. Currently my watch displays 255rpm which is wrong. Is the Misuro able to show a right value?
Trying to solve this I mounted a GSC 10. But now my watch says, there are to frequencies and that every minute.
Is it possible to get that frequency from GSC to my watch and power and speed from Misuro? If yes, how?
I do not think clever training offers the Elite Turbo Muin Smart B+ Turbo Trainer anymore , but you have looked at it in the past correct? an you purchase an adapter so campy cassette can be used also. I have a lemond direct drive revolution and it has a shimano cassette but I use a bicycle with campy component on the trainer without problems.
I am interested in the Elite Turbo Muin Smart B+ Turbo Trainer . I have a friend who is very techy like yourself and he told me to look at your reviews etc . I am not very techy and I like the lemond because it is “simple” . I am not interested in swift etc. I just get on the trainer and do my work .
The only problem with my lemond revolution is the noise and I am afraid I will go deaf in the future (no joke) .
Thanks in advance for your input .
Elite supporthas a software to change speed/ power table inside Misuro B+ sensor. You can contact Elite support to make a teamviewer online meeting. What you need is the correction value at 5 – 10 – 15 -20 – 25 -30 – 35 -40 Km/h (current powerdata and desired power data) and an USB ANt+ dongle. The operator can reprogram the Misuro B+ with this values. I deducted 10% over all. This comes closer to reality.
link to youtube.de
what sensor can I use on the chain stay to
If its still available I was using this one link to dcrainmaker.com
In two words – You can’t. Well not on a version 2 at least. The pickup on the v2 is on the drive side, down by the fan and trying to get a sensor there and then setting the wheel circumference is difficult and will not be accurate (I tried it when I first bought mine four+ years ago). The optimal way to use it is via the Misuro B+ sensor that fits into the cavity on the drive side behind the fan and to ensure it is calibrated correctly too. When I bought mine, it didn’t come with the sensor (bought separately) and had to send it to Italy to be reprogrammed.