Muov Indoor Smart Bike In-Depth Review

The Muov Bike has been floating (and wiggling) around the DCR Cave for about 18 months now. Actually, a few different models have come and gone in that timeframe. And countless people have ridden them during the DCR Open Houses too. However, up until now, Muov as a product has largely been a case of “almost ready”, on repeat. But over the past few months, the company has started shipping real paid units to real customers. And likewise, a few months back, I switched over to a final production model.

The primary appeal of the Muov bike is clearly the movement aspect of it. While smart trainers have been mounted onto rocker plates for years now, that’s a very different type of movement from that of the Muov bike. Rocker plates tend to tilt the entire bike linearly towards the left or right (or, sliding forward/back), but they don’t mimic how the different parts of the bike frame actually move independently in a lean (such as the handlebars). Of course, rocker plates still delivered on mitigating discomfort in really long rides, so that in and of itself is still valuable.

The secondary appeal of Muov is as a high-end smart bike. Specifically, moreso than just tech or accuracy, but things like custom frame painting, and product sourcing and manufacturing almost fully within the UK. It is not a cheap bike, coming in at £4,995 GBP, roughly 1,800GBP above the Wahoo KICKR Bike V2. Of course, any time you start talking super-premium products, there’s always been a transition between form and functionality, which I’ll get into a bit later.

So, let’s dive into things.

The Tech Specs:

Ok, there’s a host of tech specs here, and as usual, I’m just gonna dump them into a big ol’ pile down below, roughly sorted in the same category order I do all smart bikes/trainers.

– Architecture: Common base platform (flywheel/pedals/rotational elements) + Individually sized carbon-fiber bike frames
– Sound: Silent
– Frame sizing: 5’0” to 6’7” (152cm to 200cm)
– Max Rider Weight: 243lbs/110kgs
– Q factor: 150mm
– Crank Lengths: 150/155/160/165/170/172.5/175mm (bear-claw design)
– Maximum lean angle: Up to 12°
– Protocol Compatibility: Bluetooth Smart Trainer Control (FTMS), Zwift Protocol (4 concurrent BT connections)
– Cadence: Yes
– WiFi: Yes
– Ethernet: Yes
–  Saddle: Selle Italia
– USB Connectivity: No
– Zwift Race Mode: Yes (fastest of any trainer/bike, at 30Hz)
– App Compatibility: Any app that supports Bluetooth FTMS (which is all of them)
– Max Incline: 25% simulated grade
– Max Wattage: 2,500 watts
– Stated Accuracy: +/-1.0%
– Cadence Range: 5RPM-165RPM
– Shifters: Real clicking buttons for shifting & braking, matches Shimano style currently, also have 5 extra buttons per side (left and right)
– Steering: Yes, within supported apps (Zwift), TrainingPeaks Virtual, simply by leaning
– Power Cable Required: Yes, power block compatible with 100-240v
– USB Ports: 2x20w USB-C (for phone charging, etc…)
– Pricing: £4,995 GBP
– Availability regions: UK (immediate), Mainland Europe (Fall 2025), US + Other Markets (early 2026)

Currently, the unit can be shipped within the UK, where Muov staff will set it up and ensure you’re good to go (first 70 bikes). But once it starts using regular shipping couriers, the unit will come in two boxes. One for the frame (5.9kg), and one for the base (35.9kg).

At present, the first 70 bikes also get a custom paint job on that carbon fiber frame (included free). In other words, you can put whatever design you want on it, and the painting is done at a local UK shop that specializes in high-end cars. I suppose that’s somewhat fitting given the price point. After those initial 70 bikes, then they’ll have four custom colors, though you can still pay extra to get the custom paint job.

Finally, on those frame sizes, they are as follows:

Small: 152cm-165cm (5’0” to 5’5”)
Medium: 165cm-185cm (5’5” to 6’1”)
Large: 185cm-200cm (6’1” to 6’7)

They offer the following configurations within that:

Stems: 70mm-120mm
Handlebars: 380mm-420mm

Got all that? Good. Let’s get rolling…err…rocking.

The Bike Basics:

First, let’s just cover the basics, excluding movement (covered in a dedicated section). The first thing to know about the Muov smartbike is that it’s really two pieces, the base and the frame. The frame detaches from the base in about 15-25 seconds, allowing you to swap frame sizes for different riders. In my case, they loaded one frame size for myself, and one for my wife (smaller-sized).

Just like for initial deliveries, Muov themselves delivered and set up the bike (as seen above). In one case at the DCR Cave, they did it via truck. And in a second delivery, they did it via two production boxes (as they’ll do down the road). Once all set up, it looks exactly like the below:

The crankset maintains the pedals on it, including the specific pedal crank arm length that you’ve put the pedals in. It features a bear claw style design, with holes for 150mm/155mm/160mm/165mm/170mm/172.5mm/175mm crank lengths.

However, this is probably the only downside to the frame swapping, in that typically my wife and I would run significantly different crank arm lengths. Since she has tended to put more mileage on it, I’ve just left them in her crank arm length when I’m riding. Over many years of riding all assortment of last-minute-loaners, things like a few millimeters of crank length don’t even faze me.

On the back of the unit you’ll find the power adapter plug, connected to the beast of a brick/power source.

There’s also an Ethernet port down there, though at present it’s not leveraged. Again, a future thing. Further yet, there’s an LED light, which can be used for assessing bike status, or to direct nearby air traffic. It’s insanely bright in a dark room/space. Muov says the app will soon have an option to toggle/tweak the status light brightness.

For now though, most nearby air traffic has ignored it. Here’s all the colors of the rainbow it produces, and what they mean:

To remove the bike from the base, you’ll rotate this little knob a while, which then allows the base to actually slide backwards and detach. The reason it needs to do this is because different frame sizes would have different distances to the front of the base…which, is pretty clever.

Next, up front, you’ll see two different ‘fork’ supports. Essentially, these allow the rotation, and act as tensioning on the system. If there were just one piece up there, it’d flop all over the place, but the secondary band acts as a stabilizer. We’ll dive into that more in the movement section. Nonetheless, you can see how when I twist the handlebars left or right, that secondary (rear) fork piece counter-rotates outwards, sorta like an elbow.

Ok, so moving upwards from that are the handlebars. What’s kinda neat here is that like some of the other bikes, you could technically swap out the main bars themselves if you wanted to. All of the electronics are in the shifter piece (roughly akin to how it’d work on SRAM AXS or Shimano Di2).

You’ll notice there is a small pile of buttons on top of the shifters, which allow integration within apps, including Zwift. For example, you can control various actions in the game like the mini pop-up menu, PowerUps, and u-turns. It’s very close to Zwift Play buttons, though not exactly the same. This is where Zwift could do a better job at having proper specifications for indoor bikes to be able to follow. Right now, it’s sorta casual conversation between Zwift and bike companies on how to make things work.

That does give bike companies flexibility to also work with other platforms, though I think Zwift could offer a bit more clarity here. Or, you know, the industry as a whole could do the proper industry thing and actually come up with an interoperability standard. I guess those days are behind us.

As for shifting, you can see there are real-world paddle shifters there, in a Shimano Di2 style shifting arrangement. The ability to switch to a SRAM-style shifting arrangement is coming in a future firmware update.

At the intersection of the top tube and fork, you’ll see two USB-C ports (one on each side). These are 20w USB-C charging ports, so they could charge most phones/tablets pretty easily, but would fall short of being able to charge a laptop (usually 65w is the minimum you’d need there). Still, these 20w ports are better than most (all?) smart bikes today.

Going back to sizing bits, the whole concept of the Muov bike right now is sizing it to you as a rider, from the frame size to the connecting components like the stem. You can see here it’s just a standard bike stem. This means it’s easy to change/swap/etc down the road, but it also means it’s less smart-bike and more real-bike. The downside is that, if sharing between two riders, there isn’t an easy/quick way to adjust this. But again, remember if swapping between riders of moderate size difference, the frames themselves have the handlebars on them.

Likewise, the frame also has the saddle and associated seat post. It uses a standard saddle rail attachment, though it comes with a Selle Italia saddle. You can adjust the saddle height using two simple bolts hidden by the protective rubber cover at the base of the seat post.

Rounding things out, in my case, the frame is the medium sized frame, which is just a smidge small on me (I’m an inch taller than the top-end of this frame size, but the first production run was for medium frames, and I’m used to constantly being on randomly sized test bikes, so not a big deal). They also have a small-sized frame that my wife has been riding. You’ll see a few different paint schemes throughout this review, for different iterations of the bike I’ve tested over the last 18 months or so.

Finally, for lack of anywhere else to mention it, the noise/volume/sound on this is virtually silent.

Connectivity Overview:

The Muov bike currently connects to apps via Bluetooth, though WiFi Direct Connect is set for the next firmware update (likely within the next few weeks). In any event, as of today, the unit transmits the following:

Bluetooth Smart FTMS: This includes power, trainer control, and cadence
Zwift Protocol: This includes power, trainer control cadence, steering/button control, and virtual gear indications.

You can see this within Zwift, showing all of those paired up:

This is notable in that they act like a Zwift Play controller combined with an Elite Sterzo steering device. The bike allows natural steering (more on that later), while also having many of the buttons mapped to specific Zwift functions. This includes using the secondary inside handlebar buttons for adjusting ERG mode bias, as well as PowerUps in simulation mode. There are also additional top buttons that are pending future Zwift (or other app) integration. This is roughly akin to Elite and their Square, also pending Zwift integration for added button controls. Here’s the current layout:

Still, it’s pretty darn cool to have the pieces they do have today, all in-box. Especially the steering components and virtual gearing pieces. In fact, this is basically the first company in forever to get the gear indicators shown in-game on Zwift from Day 0. Most other companies have had to wait years (or never) to get Zwift to light up that seemingly basic thing.

Now, that said, at this time it doesn’t transmit either a clean (non-FTMS) Bluetooth power signal, or ANT+ power signal. I had a good chat with them about both, and they think that re-enabling the non-FTMS Bluetooth clean feed should be relatively straightforward (which is used by watches and bike computers for capturing data for training load/recovery). However, it doesn’t sound like ANT+ is on the near-term agenda. That’s pretty much only leveraged by bike computers for ANT+ FE-C control (or apps, but most apps would use Bluetooth FTMS instead today). Still, as evidenced by me last week trying to get a watch to consume the power data for training load, I simply couldn’t do it. No power data came through, because many watches don’t properly understand FTMS power sources.

In the scheme of balancing priorities for their earliest customers, I get it. But medium to longer term, it’s an obvious gap that needs filling.

Ride Feel & Movement:

Ultimately, one of the biggest reasons you’d buy the Muov bike is for its movement (or, I suppose, a custom paint job). Of course, indoor riders have been chasing movement in some capacity for years. Harkening all the way back to the original Kinetic Rock & Roll trainers, and then the rocker plate revolution, then the big trainer brands adding various amounts of sway, along with all sorts of homemade solutions along the way.

But, the Muov bike is notably different, primarily in that the actual frame itself is leaning, concurrently with the handlebars twisting to facilitate the lean. This is the closest we’ve seen to mimicking the actual movement and lean outside. Of course, one has to remember that a *portion* of your turning ability outside is less twisting the bars, and more body lean. But eventually, that lean translates into steering tube rotation.

This is a point often missed when people talk about turning on indoor platforms, saying “you don’t turn the handlebars outside to turn your bike, you lean”. My response is simple: I’m more than happy to watch anyone ride down the street with a locked steerer tube/handlebars. It’ll end hilariously for all of us, except you.

Thus, the Muov bike attempts to mimic that element of ‘lean drives the handlebar rotation’, and frankly, it does a really good job of it. The amount of lean tied to the rotation feels normal. What’s tricky though, is getting that mentally *back* into your head when riding indoors. That’s because, by default, on Zwift, if you lean the Muov bike, it’s going to steer your bike across the road. Now, you can’t crash in Zwift today, so that doesn’t really matter, except in (compatible) races where you’d ride a non-ideal line.

But then that gets to the next question: Does it feel correct as a system? Specifically, does it feel like the right amount of movement/lean for your body, compared to how it feels outdoors? And honestly, that’s a tricky question to answer. And my answer for this has slowly changed over time (as in, over 18 months). When I first got on the bike 18 months ago, my answer was pretty clear-cut: It felt too wobbly, and too easy to twist.

However, during this time period, they did make some adjustments to the tension in future base units I’d eventually use, making it a bit more stiff and less floppy. That, combined with simply riding it more over time, has led me to a place of relative happiness with it.  I’m good with the lean/responsiveness equilibrium at this point. Whether or not that’s my brain simply moving towards acceptance, I don’t know. But I know when I switch back to other static indoor bikes, I miss that bit of sway.

Below, let’s look at a few examples with four camera angles. First up, is normal riding along, with just the smallest amount of sway:

As you can see, the point of most of the movement systems isn’t to have crazy amounts of sway the entire ride. Instead, it’s to offer that slight bit of movement, just like outside. And just like outside, you aren’t slamming the bike left and right the entire ride, but only for the tiniest slivers of your ride (e.g. a sprint). Or, at least, I’m hoping that’s how you ride outside.

Next, let’s look at an actual sprint. In my case, I don’t really see the need to slam the bike down with excessive lean. But, I’m also not a sprinter, so, take that for what it’s worth. But again, you can see the lean angle here, but it’s not crazy:

Then finally, let’s just lean the darn bike over. Here, we can see it drives the handlebars (especially in the top-down angle), simulating…well…I don’t know what. I guess a very aggressive sprint. Again, I’m not a proper sprinter, so, yeah.

I do appreciate the very wide base on the unit, whereas some of the indoor trainer movement solutions have a base that feels easy to tip over. I don’t see any viable way to tip this base over, short of someone pulling you over. It barely fits on my cheap Amazon Basics trainer mat. Note that you can adjust each of the four corners individually, since ensuring the bike is level is super-important to the Muov centering back to a non-tilted position (like any rocker system).

Oh, and finally, a look at just sitting up. The unit doesn’t flop around, and stays put, as long as your body stays upright. If you were to lean your body, the handlebars would lean too.

But I’m not the only one riding this bike. In fact, I’m pretty sure my wife has put in more hours on it this winter than I have, including some 3-hour rides, and more 2-hour rides than I can count. And she, too, is pretty happy with the overall movement equation at this point.

Likewise, my friend DesFit, has ridden it a ton, mostly the unit I had at the DCR Cave. In fact, it seemed to become his preferred indoor smart bike to ride when he would come to Amsterdam (usually for a few weeks at a time). Given I literally have every single smart bike to choose from, that’s probably worth something. Well, at least until his buckets of sweat killed it. But thankfully, Muov learned a lot from Des killing it, redesigning a ton of sealing on the housing, making it nearly swimming pool proof. In fact, as I’d stumble into months later on the revised hardware, they made it *too* waterproof. More about that in the accuracy section.

Of course, movement is only one part of the ride feel equation. Specifically, the mechanical part. The other component is the flywheel/motor aspect, which is a blend of both mechanical and electrical design. The motor is what’s going to give the bike the road feel inertia, and simulate gradients up and down, as well as other resistance shifts. This includes both simulation mode (e.g., replicating the gradient, such as an 8% incline), and ERG mode in structured workouts (e.g., 250w).

In this case, the electromagnetic motor connecting to the pedals via belt drive feels pretty good. I don’t really have any complaints about simulation mode, or responsiveness. In fact, Muov touts that they have the fastest responding smart bike on the market today, both in terms of specs, and simply seen in Zwift when using Race Mode. They currently update at 30Hz (30 times per second). In fact, they actually had to ‘slow things down’ so Zwift could display it, since Zwift itself is showing at 10Hz (10 times per second).

Where things get more noticeable is actually in ERG mode, especially when on a longer interval. In ERG mode, you’ve set the wattage at a given level (e.g., 250w), and the bike will hold said level. However, no human legs pedal at precisely 250w on every pedal stroke (because as a human, different parts of your pedal stroke will have different output levels). In Muov’s case, they can detect your actual power output variations, and will display that. Like all bikes, there’s a difference between holding a given wattage, and giving you a slight bit of freedom on the pedal stroke.

Now, I’ve previously given some smart bikes (and trainers) a hard time when they can’t hold a given set point at a level value. After all, if my wattage is fluctuating all over the place, that’s not really the value I want it at. But in this case, Muov says it’s really coming down to smoothing. All companies will smooth some aspect of their power values (compared to what the strain gauge itself is measuring). Muov says they’re trying to find a balance between smoothing for smoothing’s sake, and showing you what your actual power variations are.

Here’s an example of an interval in TrainerRoad:

You can see there are second-to-second variations, but allowing pedal power variations about 5-10w off the set-point. As a point of comparison, the infamously bad at ERG mode Wattbike ATOM 2020, was upwards of 70w off the set point (and usually 40-50w every few seconds). Crazy town.

Likewise, if we look at something like the Wahoo KICKR BIKE SHIFT review from last year, the Muov seems to be a bit more precise than the SHIFT in terms of holding the set point closely. Both are good, though. But that’s all starting to slide towards accuracy bits, for the next section.

In any case, as for movement on the Muov, I think they nail it. As with technology, there are always areas it could move in the future, for example, more forward/back movement, but even that has limits, as we’ve seen with the Wahoo KICKR Move & Tacx NEO 3M (or rocker plates like the Saris MP1). Whether or not app platforms can take advantage of the secondary steering aspects of the Muov bike remains probably a bigger question. Steering has been around Zwift for years, but is sparingly used in races.

Power Accuracy:

Part of the reason for waiting for so long for this review was to simply ensure I had the final shipping firmware. There’s been a bunch of iterations on that during this time period, but from an accuracy standpoint, everything has stabilized a few months ago firmware-wise. There have been other issues I’ve run into that they’ve solved since then. There’s no point focusing on solved issues, since nobody getting/buying a bike today would ever see those issues. However, I was very impressed with how detailed they were in their after-action reports they provided me, on each of the issues I ran into, including some thermal limits we unintentionally found, that I’ll detail at the end of this section. Point being, I continue to be impressed with the engineering side of the company owning the fact that they’re a startup, and have to prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that each thing has been addressed/fixed.

Note that from a power standpoint, all of that is within the base portion, not the bike frame portion.

In my case, I’m using a pair of Favero Assioma Duo pedals, Garmin Rally power meter pedals, Favero Pro MX power meter pedals, and all sorts of other things too. All of the pedal sets I’m using for testing have been validated against other smart trainers and power meter cranksets in recent weeks, ensuring they are good  Thus, I’m pretty confident in that specific pair of pedals for accuracy testing.

With that, let’s first look at a TrainerRoad ERG workout, here’s the structure within TrainerRoad. I first want to briefly look at how quickly it responds.

You can see above that this is going from ~150w to ~415w, and arrives within 3 seconds. That’s within my goal range of 2-4 seconds. Any longer and it cuts into the interval, and any faster and it’s like hitting a brick wall. In the case of this particular workout, you can see my legs actually slowly starting to lose the plot, in that I’m not quite as stable as I’d often be. Still, the Muov does a reasonably good job at dealing with my fatigue and keeping the power steady.

Next, looking at the accuracy data compared to the Favero Assioma Pro MX2, you can see that these longer sets are virtually identical. I like looking at longer sets like this, to see if I can spot any drift over time. Here, we don’t see any.

As you can see within the intervals, there’s very very little deviation:

Here’s another ERG workout:

It’s also boringly good.

Then we’ve got one of my wife’s 30×30 workouts. Typically I do this in my trainer tests, but given she did a longer one, might as well use her data:

If we zoom in, we can see just how close each of these are, often either identical wattages, or within a couple of watts (well within the accuracy claims of both units combined):

Next, let’s look at a SIM (simulation) mode ride, this one in Zwift. In this case I’m using the Titans Grove route (Sand & Sequoias), which I use on almost every trainer/smart bike test, due to it having a wide variety of terrain, including flats for high flywheel speed testing, climbs, rollers, and more.

As you can see, it’s pretty much identical. If we zoom in on a couple of sections, starting with this just sorta meandering along section, you can see the variations in power, but the two power meters are nearly identical:

Meanwhile, here’s a moderate sprint, with astonishingly close data (zero smoothing applied):

And another sprint, this one smoothed with a 5-second smoothing filter, just to make it easier to see, and again, the peak 5-second smoothed value is within 1-watt, which is almost unheard of in trainer accuracy testing.

Oh, and another shorter SIM workout with another fun sprint in there:

And here’s yet another SIM workout as well, with more comparison data from a different set of power meter pedals.

Ultimately, across a boatload of rides from both my wife and I, I’m seeing virtually no difference in accuracy to leading power meter pedals in a wide variety of conditions (including significant temperature swings, since almost all the Muov riding in the last few months has actually been outside in either cooler nighttime temps, or blazing hot day temps). It does a really good job at compensating for that, albeit we did have one snag with the heat.

In fact, remember earlier when I mentioned about DesFit killing one of my Muov bikes due to excessive sweating? I suppose, technically speaking, I was the one who put the final dagger in it this past winter, he just started the job earlier in the winter. In any event, as part of Muov’s figuring out what went wrong on that unit, they ended up doing some substantial changes with the case and waterproofing to ensure it never happened again (and it didn’t). But, in doing all those changes, they actually made the case *too* good, in that it didn’t dissipate heat.

That in of itself isn’t a problem, except that they had previously set thermal limits lower. So in slightly warmer conditions, my wife on a longer workout managed to trip the thermal limits. Still, it was hardly a hot day, or a very hard workout. As has been the case for all of the early Muov tech things that I’ve stumbled into, they went back and did tons of testing (and changes) to validate it would never happen again. In this case, moving up the thermal limits that they had set years prior. Those limits were set using different case materials with different assumptions, and didn’t really apply anymore (unnecessarily low). It just had never been a problem until…well…my wife.

I bring this up because there’s a reality that buying a first-gen product of any type will have bumps. I’m far more interested in how the bumps are dealt with, than if they occur. Overall, this is a fairly bump-free product at this point. But I thought it was interesting to see just how much effort Muov went to on addressing the thermal concern. This includes taking her exact workout file, recreating the conditions in the lab, then making testers try and cause the failure.

Then, figuring out a new thermal limit, validating it’d cover a top-tier Tour de France rider at insanely hot (36°C) room temps, ensuring it complies with various regulatory and drive unit manufacturer requirements, writing up a data-filled report, and on and on.

The updated limit can now withstand an ambient room temp of 40°C (104°F), for upwards of 2 hours at 300w – well beyond what any coach would ever have their rider do (or could likely survive without massive fans).

Again, I’m impressed. Not just with a fancy report, but with a fancy report that specifically outlines how the failure occurred, how they tested it, how they mitigated, and then how they’re going to ensure it never happens again.

Will there be future bugs? Almost certainly. But if anything has been demonstrated over the last 18 months of me riding various units, this seems to be the norm for how they address issues that pop up. And one of the benefits to having limited production runs, is that it’s fairly easy to quickly roll out any fixes required.

Wrap-Up:

Ultimately, the Muov Bike is a premium indoor training product, and certainly not one for everyone. Arguably, the most premium smart bike we’ve seen. But not entirely from a pure sports-tech standpoint, but more so from the materials side. The entire thing is made in the UK, by people in the UK, and you can get any design you want on your bike frame. It’s designed to appeal to high-end buyers, and that’s perfectly fine. The definition of ‘high-end’ will, of course, vary, depending on who you ask.

Looking at it from a purely technical standpoint, there’s no other indoor smart bike product on the market that moves in this manner (or anywhere close to it). Sure, you can put a smart bike on a rocker plate, but we’d all agree that’s not the same. Is it good enough? Probably for some. But not everyone. Moving deeper into the tech, from an accuracy standpoint, I’m very happy there with both power accuracy and responsiveness.

From there, we shift our focus to the wider software features it offers. Muov has features others don’t, like replication of the Zwift Play handlebar functions, which other smart bikes don’t fully have at this point. Yet concurrently, the Muov bike lacks bits like ANT+ (for those that want it), or clean Bluetooth Smart power feeds (again, for those with watches that might need it). It sounds like the second one is on the to-do list, but exactly when is unclear. And compared to the Wahoo KICKR Bike, which can simulate going up and down, which the Muov bike can’t. Again, you ultimately have to pick which movement you want to simulate.

There is no doubt that there is a market for high-end sports tech products like the Muov. Cycling has proven that, time and time again, especially in Europe. Muov also aims to come to the US soon, and given the current tariff situation and UK build origin, might actually be in a substantially better position than some of the other indoor bikes being imported from Asia. Only time will tell there.

What I can say, though, is that at this point, both my wife and I have been pretty happy to put miles on this bike, and specifically, knowing the power accuracy is solid, with just the right amount of movement to keep things interesting.

With that, thanks for reading!

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