4iiii Fliiiight Smart Trainer In-Depth Review

The Fliiiight is a different kind of trainer on so many levels. First off – it doesn’t use any sort of traditional trainer resistance technology to provide resistance. Instead, it recreates gradients and wattage levels by moving magnets, which depending on how close they are to your metal wheel rim will increase or decrease the amount of work you have to put in. The primary benefit of this concept is that it creates exactly zero sound. At least the trainer itself anyway. Your bike’s drive train will still create sound depending on how clean you have it (or how good your mechanic/parts are).

This design isn’t new though. This past spring, 4iiii bought STAC, which previously made the STAC Zero trainer. That trainer had the same technology foundations, but lacked style (it was traffic cone orange) and was finicky to set up. You had to deal with alignment issues as well as installing these weights on your wheels. But once you got it all set up, it worked just fine. The new Fliiiight gets rid of the weights, as well as the alignment issues. Now it has this crazy cool robotic alignment system. Frankly, I could create and play GIF’s of it all day long.

However, beyond all the tech bits – this trainer is different in its target market. While not clear from 4iiii at launch (or even till I finally started testing it) – it was designed for a rider that could put out less. Power that is. Simply put – this trainer isn’t for most people at the front of the pack. Nor for many people in the middle of the pack. I’ll get into all that below – but 4iiii now says that this trainer is designed for someone with an FTP of about 200w – and I’d agree with that (though, with some more caveats that I’ll get into).

But before we get into all those details (and trust me, there are many details) – note that 4iiii sent me this media loaner sample to test. Once I’m done with it here for testing I’ll sort out how to get it back to them in Canada. Just the way I roll. If you found this review useful, feel free to hit up the links at the bottom to help support the site – I appreciate it!

What’s in the box:

You’d easily mistake the 4iiii Fliiiight box for someone who managed to order a double-stack pizza. It’s actually almost identical to two pizza boxes stacked together. It’s amazing.

 

Slide off the sleeve, and crack open the top – also, pizza box style.

Inside you’ll find a sticker that’s your quick-start guide. It literally is as simple as this sticker implies.

Open up the stickered level, and you’ll see the trainer just chillin’ there:

And then here’s everything laid out for its maiden unboxing photo:

There’s only a few parts inside, as seen below:

A) USB-C cable with nifty magnetic attachment thingy
B) Three spoke clasps (you only need one)
C) A trainer skewer

Here’s a closer a closer look at that:

Those spoke clasps are used by the optical sensor on the trainer to detect your wheel speed. You simply just slide it around one of your spokes and you’re good to go. Just like giving your spoke a hug.

And that’s it. No wheel weights here, nor anything else. Oddly, not even a USB wall outlet adapter. Though you can use any USB adapter port you have sitting around your house. The trainer has a battery in it, which is claimed for 2 hours of usage. In my testing though I just ran it plugged in all the time to an older iPhone wall adapter. The way USB works it doesn’t matter what you plug it into.

The Basics:

So now that we’ve got it unboxed, we’ll get it setup. Which is equally as simple. First, unfold the legs and stand the trainer up:

Next, unfold the rear arms. Its’ technically a two-level origami unfolding process. It takes approximately 3.8 seconds. Any slower, and you need to do some more reps to get your form down:

 

After that go ahead and stock the spoke hugger on your favorite spoke. It doesn’t matter which spoke, but just arrange it so that it’s closer to the outer edge of the wheel.

And finally, mount your bike using either your existing metal skewer or the included one. If you have a plastic skewer on your bike from your wheel, swap it out. Don’t worry, you can use the metal one for regular riding as well.

Now’s a good time to mention that you do indeed need a wheel rim with metal in it. If you’ve got yourself a fancy carbon wheelset, that won’t do here. The magnets need the metal to interact with.

Oh – and even better is that you don’t even need to keep your tires pumped up, like this:

You’ll want to ensure the bike is nice and snug. The entire robotic moving arm system works best when there’s no sway of the bike itself, as it’s already having to deal with the fact that your wheel isn’t true from the like 28 times you tried to jump the curb and failed.

Finally, go ahead and plug it in to ensure it’s charged up. The trainer has a USB-C port on it, that charges its internal 2hr battery. But what’s cool is that 4iiii included a set of these tiny little magnetic USB-C breakaway adapters (you can actually buy them here). This means if you trip over the cable it won’t rip away from your trainer. You know, like Apple used to have on their MacBook’s before we all had to move to 4 ports filled with dongle adapters.

 

I’d love to see more and more trainer companies shift to USB-C for standardized power delivery. If only because it’ll make my life easier having to keep track of which power plug is for which trainer. Most trainers don’t actually need that much power, and some of them even generate their own power. Obviously they’ll require more power than this lowly USB adapter below (such as a laptop charger) – but heck, at least there would be a standard.

If you haven’t turned on the power switch by now, it’s a good time to do so:

You’ll notice that as soon as you either power it on, or spin the wheel and stop pedaling the robotic arms will go to town. They’ll close up on the wheel and then release. This is the automatic calibration feature. Yup, that’s it – your trainer is now calibrated.

What’s really cool about this is that it not only aligns itself across the entire horizontal length of the back of the trainer (in case you didn’t put your bike in centered), but also figures out your exact wheel width and position too. Seriously, just click play and watch the entire sequence – including the normal riding sound it makes towards the end:

Now let’s start pedaling for realz. You’ll notice as you pedal that the little robotic arms are constantly swaying in and out. This is because your wheel likely isn’t true (perfectly even). It’s using that spoke magnet to measure your wheel speed in real-time, and then countering for the variations in your pedal stroke in real-time as well. It’s almost as fascinating to watch as the calibration sequence.

As you request more power from the system (such as going from 150w to 300w), the arms will move closer and closer to your wheel rim, providing more resistance. The idea being that they never touch, else that’ll make some noise (but is otherwise harmless).

And remember that little spoke condom? That’s actually passing by these optical sensors right here. The white helps the sensor see it clearly compared to your spokes:

Now given the Fliiiight is a smart trainer, it’ll change resistance automatically in a few different ways, primarily driven by different applications/methods.  But most of this all boils down to two core methods:

ERG Mode: Setting a specific power level – i.e., 185w.  In this mode, no matter what gearing you use, the trainer will simply stay at 185w (or whatever you set it to).
Simulation Mode: Simulating a specific outdoor grade – i.e., 6% incline. In this mode, it’s just like outdoors in that you can change your gearing to make it easier or harder.  Wattage is not hard-set, only incline levels.

In the case of simulation (aka slope) mode, the Fliiiight can simulate from 0% to 7% incline – which is below the competitors in this price point. The Elite Tuo goes to 10%, the Saris M2 to 15%,  the Wahoo KICKR SNAP simulates up to 12%. Keep in mind that by default on Zwift your gradient is halved (this doesn’t impact your speed or power required, just gearing). While I always use it at 100%, here’s what that setting shows by default at 50%:

This means that by default a 10% gradient becomes a 5% gradient unless you change it to 100%. Which in the case of the Fliiiight is probably a good thing, given its relatively low ability to replicate grades.

The second mode the trainer has is ERG mode.  In that case, the company claims up to 2,200w – but there’s no way in hell it’ll ever hit that unless you’re doing like 900RPM. This is very low in the smart trainer world, even for a $500 smart trainer. And this probably gets to the core ‘challenge’ with the Fliiiight: It’s essentially designed for riders with an FTP up to about 200w. FTP is essentially how much wattage you can hold for approximately an hour. So if you can hold 200w for an hour, your FTP is 200w. If you can hold 285w for an hour, your FTP is 285w. There are various ways to test this that don’t require you pedal balls to the wall for an hour, just lookup FTP test or RAMP test.

In any case, let’s step through each of these very Fliiiight specific aspects one at a time. First being ERG mode responsiveness. Here’s my standard 30×30 test using TrainerRoad, which shifts between recovery at about 150w, and then intervals at about 420w. Repeating every 30 seconds. For this test I’m looking to see how quickly a trainer responds, as well as how well it holds the set point. We’ll get into the actual power accuracy portions (comparative to other units) in a later section. First tough, responsiveness:

So you can see for the first set above, it was really low. Huh.

Turns out my cadence was around 85RPM. A bit lower than my usual 90’s or so, but hardly an issue on any smart trainer I use. As such, the trainer wasn’t able to supply the required power – short by some 50-70 watts, since my wheel speed wasn’t fast enough. You can see that as I brought up my cadence into the upper 90’s the Fliiiight was able to provide the power just fine.

As such, for the next set I kept my cadence above 100RPM, and the trainer matched the required/requested ERG mode set point of 428w just fine (give or take a few watts, as is normal for most trainers):

I eventually found that for these sets I could get away with approx. 98RPM. Any lower and it wouldn’t hold resistance.

Why does this matter?

Well, if you wanted to do low-cadence drills you couldn’t do so – at least at these wattages. If you had a target of say, 300w, then sure, there’s no issues there. That’s where we get into the FTP bit of 200w. The trainer, as you can see, can certainly put out more than 200w just fine. But if you’re doing training sessions, then you’ll undoubtedly have parts of a structured workout that are higher than 200w. That’s how you get stronger. If you just train below FTP, it’s unlikely you’ll make meaningful training gains.

Now – I circled back to 4iiii on this to see if the challenges I had with cadence and getting more power were expected. Essentially they said they were. However, they also gave an option to tweak the distance buffer between the magnets on the arm and my wheel. Remember that controls how much power the trainer can respond with. Normally they have a bit of a margin of error to handle less than true wheels so they don’t rub. But one could reduce that margin through settings, and that’d, in turn, give you more resistance.

So I did that (it’s a feature of their upcoming Android app, but 4iiii Support has a website you can change it from as well). It allowed me to set the Motion Limit in closer. By the time this releases to the public it’ll be much prettier and probably have normal human terms. But to test the concept out, it worked just fine.

 

I then tried TrainerRoad 30×30’s again. Good deal – much better in terms of top-end power. I was able to do the first set at 77RPM and it was coming in at 450w. Granted, the power was a bit higher than the set point, but I wasn’t super even in my stroke since I hadn’t entirely expected it to actually match me at 450w for 77RPM. I then did a second interval, this one in the mid 80’s, and it was still able to hold the power just fine.

So ok – ERG mode is fine within that context of holding power, assuming you’re riding in the fastest possible gearing combination (big ring in front, smaller rings in back). Unlike other trainers in ERG mode, the 4iiii is the opposite. It *wants* wheel speed. The faster the better. All other trainers are the opposite (slower flywheel speed is more responsive/accurate). The downside though is that with this change the road-feel got worse. Substantially worse. Like pedaling through mud. But, at lower wattages (I also tried the mid-200’s and low 300’s), it was better.

What about SIM mode – meaning, regular Zwift riding? Well, in a nutshell it’s the same, except even worse. Way worse.

See, unlike in ERG mode where you can just put your bike in the fastest possible speed and it’ll be acceptable, you can’t do that in Zwift (or other road simulation type apps). You need to shift to deal with changes in terrain, or to catch-up to a breakaway in a sprint. So what ends up happening is you run out of gears to get the resistance you need, be it on the flats or even during climbs (with the default settings) – but more than anything else also on descents.

Take the above screenshot for example – that’s as much power as the trainer would allow me to do – and that’s at a cadence of 100pm down a mere 2%.

On the flats, here’s me trying to sprint:

Note that I’m in my hardest gear and the unit is only giving me 420w of resistance – at a pretty darn high 125RM.

The same was true trying to go through Titan’s Grove with the rollers. I simply couldn’t get it to give me the power I needed without having to hold a cadence of about 100+RPM throughout the entire thing (my natural cadence is more around 90-95RPM). For example this bit here I snapped a shot at 76RPM, but even up this 7% grade it could only do 158w. My legs at 76RPM should easily have been pushing 300+ watts in here in my hardest gear:

Now I get it – I’m a more powerful ride than many. But not that many. My numbers are hardly epic. My sprints top out around 900-1,000w, and my FTP floats in the 285-295w range. So again, if you’re a less powerful rider, this would technically probably work just fine for you. For example, my wife could ride this trainer just fine from a power standpoint, her wattage isn’t above 4iiii’s thresholds.

Now – there were certainly times where I found just the right balancing of gearing and gradient that I was in a good spot. But on a rolling course like this it was few and far between.

But wait – what if I applied the 4iiii buffer app tweaks like I did for TrainerRoad? Would that help? Yes, somewhat. I was able to fairly easily hit the mid-250’s at only 65RPM. And, with all of my juices flowing I spun up to 140RPM and the trainer topped out at 716w. I suspect I could get it higher still.

 

However, that gets into road feel a bit. In other words, how does inertia feel – do the accelerations feel like riding on the road? With the original STAC Zero trainer they added wheel weights to help with inertia. Sure, they were finicky to setup, but if you got them nailed – it was good. Not $1,200 Wahoo KICKR great, but good enough good. But the Fliiiight doesn’t have weights, instead trying to do it all with magnets.

And for at least my non-perfect wheel – it’s just not a great feeling outside of ERG mode (ERG mode is mostly acceptable, but not great). Now perhaps my wheel is super abnormal, but I suspect not. In fact, this metal wheel has only a handful of miles on it. I virtually never ride it since it came with one of my bikes and I virtually always ride other wheelsets I have with PowerTap hubs in them for power meter testing. So it’s not like this wheel has thousands of miles on it. My bet is that it has at most a few hundred miles, maybe even just a few dozen miles.

I wish I had a better story here, but ultimately I think that in 2019 going on 2020, the magnetic driven technology might be too little too late to compete with other trainers at this price point. Had they had this technology 4-5 years ago at this price point – absolutely. Trainers were different then. But these days with the KICKR SNAP and others at $499 with mostly good road feel (and zero of the power limitations above), it’s a hard sell.

Though, to be fair – the 4iiiii Fliiiight is certainly far quieter than anything else in this price point (by miles), and from a power accuracy standpoint (as I’ll discuss), it’s far more accurate than any other trainer in this price point (or even other trainers at double its price). It nails those two categories, but like Captain Kirk: Scotty, I need more power!!!

App Compatibility:

When it comes to app compatibility, the 4iiii Fliiiight follows the industry norms as you’d expect from a smart trainer in 2019.  As you probably know, apps like Zwift, TrainerRoad, Sufferfest, Rouvy, Kinomap and many more, all support most of these industry standards, making it easy to use whatever app you’d like.  If trainers or apps don’t support these standards, then it makes it far more difficult for you as the end user.

The unit supports the following protocols and transmission standards:

ANT+ FE-C (Trainer Control): This is for controlling the trainer via ANT+ from apps and head units (with cadence/power data). Read tons about it here.
ANT+ Power Meter Profile: This broadcasts as a standard ANT+ power meter, with cadence data
Bluetooth Smart FTMS (Trainer Control): This is for controlling the trainer over Bluetooth Smart from a variety of apps.
Bluetooth Smart Power Meter Profile: This broadcasts as a standard BLE power meter, with cadence data

In the above, you’ll note there’s cadence data baked into the various streams. That’s handy if you’re connecting to Zwift on an Apple TV, due to Apple TV’s two concurrent Bluetooth Smart sensor limitation (plus the Apple TV remote).  This means you can pair the trainer and get power/cadence/control, while also pairing up a heart rate strap.

In my case, I largely tested with Zwift and TrainerRoad – simply because those are the two biggest apps out there today.  Within that framework, I did both regular riding in Zwift, as well as ERG workouts in TrainerRoad. If you do structured workouts in Zwift, then those are identical to TrainerRoad, leveraging ERG mode.

Starting with TrainerRoad, you’d go ahead into the Devices area and find the Fliiiight listed:

I went ahead and disabled PowerMatch, because for testing reasons I want to know it’s thinking for itself and not relying on another power meter.

Now somewhat interestingly TrainerRoad still shows their boilerplate text for the Fliiiight upon pairing, which is actually incorrect. In this case, we need to do the opposite of what it says (go with a big gear and go fast):

Next, I loaded up my usual 30×30 trainer test.  This is something I end up running on virtually all trainers as a great way to validate ERG mode responsiveness.  It starts off with a short two-minute ramp, and then it oscillates power at 30-second intervals between a low wattage (about 150w on this day), and a high wattage (~430w). You can run this same workout yourself here.

Obviously we’ve talked about the results of that already up above, so no need to rehash that.

Next, let’s look at Zwift.  Here things are pretty darn similar.  You’ll start off by pairing to the Fliiiight trainer within the equipment menu:

 

After that, you’re off and cruising in Zwift.  Of course, in regular (non-workout) mode, Zwift is transmitting the grade to the Fliiiight, which in turn automatically adjusts the grade on the trainer:

And again, I’ve discussed how this all works up above in the ‘Basics’ section in terms of road feel and such.

Finally, 4iiii has their own app for some configuration bits of the Fliiiight trainer, including firmware updates. This app is available on iOS today and shortly on Android (but they have a support website that gets you the other functions in the meantime – in fact, even some additional features not on iOS, so fear not Android folks). From the app you can go ahead and check the battery status as well as update the firmware:

  

You can also do a ‘calibrate’-like command (it’s just recentering the arms), as well as dork with some other settings you probably shouldn’t touch. And finally, you can also control the trainer in either ERG or resistance level, handy for super quick testing.

  

All of this worked just fine for me, as well as did connectivity. I didn’t experience any Fliiiight specific dropouts, largely using Bluetooth Smart to both Apple TV and an iPad (and both an Android phone and iOS phone for configuration).

Power Accuracy:

As usual, I put the trainer up against a number of power meters to see how well it handled everything from resistance control accuracy, to speed of change, to any other weird quirks along the way.

In my case I used two different bikes set up in the following configurations:

Canyon Bike Setup: Favero Assioma Duo power meter pedals, Quarq DZero
Giant Bike Setup: Garmin Vector 3 dual-sided power meter pedals, Stages LR dual-sided crankset

This is all in addition to the trainer itself recording power. While I have PowerTap hubs for rear wheelset, all of those are laced into carbon-rimmed wheels, which aren’t compatible with the Fliiiight.

In any case, I was looking to see how it reacted accuracy-wise in two core apps: Zwift and TrainerRoad (Bluetooth Smart on Apple TV and iPad). The actual apps don’t typically much matter, but rather the use cases are different.  In Zwift you get variability by having the road incline change and by being able to instantly sprint.  This reaction time and accuracy are both tested here.  Whereas in TrainerRoad I’m looking at its ability to hold a specific wattage very precisely, and to then change wattages instantly in a repeatable way.  There’s no better test of that than 30×30 repeats (30-seconds at a high resistance, followed by 30-seconds at an easy resistance).

There’s two ways to look at this.  First is how quickly it responds to the commands of the application.  So for that, we need to actually look at the overlay from TrainerRoad showing when it sent the command followed by when the Fliiiight achieved that level.  Here’s the levels being sent (the blue blocks via the green line) by TrainerRoad (in this case via Bluetooth Smart on iPad) and how quickly the Fliiiight responds to it:

On average, responsiveness time was actually OK. It took about 3 seconds once it received the command, to go from 150w to 428w – which is perfectly acceptable and normal.

So what about power accuracy? In this case, I’ve compared it to a dual-sided set of Vector 3 power pedals, as well as a single-sided Stages LR. Technically it was dual-sided, but only when you remember to swap out the battery when it dies. So it was more of a Stages R, than LR. Either way, it gives us another data point, though I think the Vector 3 are good enough for telling this story. Here’s this data set:

As you can see, it’s pretty darn close. If we look at the 2nd interval where I stabilize a bit, you’ll see the wattages are within 5w of each other (at 440w) – or a spread of 1%, not too shabby. In theory, the Fliiiight should be the lowest value of the units here because it’s furthest down the drivetrain (for which there is still drivetrain loss), but in practice we see them all about the same value-wise this ride.

It’s also notable that we see the power floor isn’t impacted much here – it holds accuracy at lower wattages just fine:

And cadence you ask? Very close. Not exactly the same between all three – but within 1-2RPM of measurement across the entire range.

And for fun, here’s the mean/max graph on that ride. You’ll see that the Fliiiight is slightly lower than the other units, exactly as it should be.

Next, let’s slide over to Zwift. This file is from the Titan’s Grove course where I’ve been testing all trainers this season. I use this course because it allows me to do some high flywheel speed stuff early on with the desert bits on the flats, and then I climb up over a series of rollers and climbs before descending a bit. It’s very demanding of trainers, but covers a broad range of terrain. Here’s that data set:

Accuracy wise that’s actually really really good. The three units are virtually identical. There’s a disconnect or two in here on both the Stages and briefly on the Fliiight side, so likely indicative of some wireless interference, but power wise these three are virtually identical when viewed at the full-ride level. We see this impact the mean/max graph later since one of the data dropouts was 18-seconds long during a harder effort.

So obviously, let’s zoom in on some sections – starting off with some early sprint attempts:

Accuracy-wise though the power is very very close during the ramp and build. The Vector 3 measures slightly higher, and the Stages R is closer to the 4iiii Fliiight (but that’s doing only single-leg power capture at that point on the Stages).

Normally I do these sprints at about 900w. But as you can see, I topped out at roughly 500w. That’s as much resistance as the trainer would give me when I put it in the hardest gear possible on my bike. In fact, if you look below at my cadence, you’ll see that I was spinning at 129RPM in order to get those 500w.

I repeated some sprints a bit later as well, but again it required me clearing nearly 130RPM in order to get the power above 500w:

Now as you can see throughout other parts of the ride, the accuracy is actually really good. It’s very very close together as I swing through these rollers climbing up at 350w+:

And finally, here’s a look at the cadence on this ride. Again, you can clearly see I’m struggling across all devices with WiFi interference and occasional drops:

But from a cadence standpoint, all the units were almost always within 1RPM of each other, and occasionally up to 2RPM. More than good enough than even most higher end trainers this year.

Ultimately – from a straight power and cadence accuracy standpoint the Fliiiight is actually really good. That matches what we saw with the STAC Zero too. While the trainer may not be able to output a lot of power, it’s able to track that power very accurately across a broad range of riding scenarios in multiple apps. Good on them.

(Note: All of the charts in these accuracy sections were created using the DCR Analyzer tool.  It allows you to compare power meters/trainers, heart rate, cadence, speed/pace, GPS tracks and plenty more. You can use it as well for your own gadget comparisons, more details here.)

Product Comparison:

I’ve added the 4iiii Fliiiight into the product comparison database, where you can compare it to any trainer that I’ve reviewed or have in the DCR Cave. For the purposes of below, I’ve slated it up against the Elite Tuo, Wahoo KICKR SNAP and CycleOps M2 – which I think are fair comparisons. All those units are $499 and wheel-on trainers, and the Fliiiight is $499 right now on sale. Of course, you can mix and match and create your own product comparison chart in the product comparison tables here. And of course, my complete Winter 2019-2020 Trainer Recommendations Guide as well.

Function/Feature4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Copyright DC Rainmaker - Updated March 21st, 2020 @ 8:57 amNew Window
Price for trainer$599$499$499$499
Trainer TypeWheel-onWheel-onWheel-OnWheel-on
Available today (for sale)December 2019Available November 2019YesYes
Availability regionsGlobalGlobalGlobalGlobal
Wired or Wireless data transmission/controlWirelessWirelessWirelessWireless
Power cord requiredNo, 2hrs battery capabilityYesYesYes
Flywheel weightN/A2.5kg / 5.5lbs2.6lbs/1.2kg10.5lbs/4.8KG
Resistance4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Can electronically control resistance (i.e. 200w)YesYesYesYes
Includes motor to drive speed (simulate downhill)NoNoNoNo
Maximum wattage capability2200w1,250 (40KPH)/2,050 (60KPH)1,500w @ 20MPH1,500W @ 40KPH
Maximum simulated hill incline7%10%15%12%
Features4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Ability to update unit firmwareYesYesYesYes
Measures/Estimates Left/Right PowerNoNoNoNo
Can rise/lower bike or portion thereofNoNoNoWith KICKR CLIMB accessory
Can directionally steer trainer (left/right)NoNoNoNo
Can rock side to side (significantly)NoNoNoNo
Can simulate road patterns/shaking (i.e. cobblestones)NoNoNoNo
Accuracy4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Includes temperature compensationYesYesNoYes
Support rolldown procedure (for wheel based)N/AYesYesYes
Supported accuracy level+/- 1%+/- 3%+/-5%+/- 3%
Trainer Control4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Allows 3rd party trainer controlYesYesYesYes
Supports ANT+ FE-C (Trainer Control Standard)YesYesYesYes
Supports Bluetooth Smart FTMS (Trainer Control Standard)YesYesYesYes
Data Broadcast4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Transmits power via ANT+YesYesYesYes
Transmits power via Bluetooth SmartYesYEsYesYes
Transmits cadence dataYesYesYesNo
Purchase4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Amazon LinkLinkN/A
Clever Training Link (Save 10% with DCR10BTF)LinkLinkLinkLink
Clever Training EuropeLink
Wiggle LinkLink
DCRainmaker4iiii FliiiightElite TuoSaris M2 (CycleOps)Wahoo KICKR SNAP (2017)
Review LinkLinkLinkLinkLink

And again remember you can mix and match and create your own product comparison chart in the product comparison tables.

Summary:

At first glance the 4iiii Fliiiight is everything I wanted the STAC Zero to grow up to be. Prettier, less finicky, USB-C charging – even nifty robotic arms and optical lasers. How can it get better than robots? However, the end-product is a bit more tricky than I expected – primarily for more powerful riders.

If you’re a less powerful rider – then I think the Fliiight is definitely an very valid option, especially if they continue to offer it at $499. To me that price point makes sense given the other contenders in the market are at $499. And there’s no trainer that’s quieter than the Fliiiight. Nor seemingly any that’s actually more accurate. Really, from an accuracy standpoint this thing pretty much rivals a KICKR or NEO any day. No issues there.

The challenge though is for more powerful riders there’s just too many compromises to make. In discussions in early November, 4iiii stated a target market rider FTP of 200w. However, in later e-mails they specified a range of up to 250w. I think the 250w FTP is really only valid if you’re more of a triathlete doing largely steady-state workouts (and only with the magnetic buffer tweak). But even all that considered, the road inertia feel isn’t great. Sure, it’s not terribly different than the STAC Zero was – but trainers and price points have moved on. The trainers of this year, wonky manufacturing and power accuracy issues aside, are physically better and more realistic than trainers of two years ago – but now hundreds of dollars cheaper.

Ultimately you’ll have to decide if the tradeoffs of this trainer meet your specific requirements. For myself, it wouldn’t be an appropriate trainer. However, for someone like my wife who is far smaller and needs less of a wattage ceiling – she’d be able to train on this just fine. All while still being super quiet.

Found this review useful? Or just want to save 10%? Here’s how:

Hopefully you found this review useful. At the end of the day, I’m an athlete just like you looking for the most detail possible on a new purchase – so my review is written from the standpoint of how I used the device. The reviews generally take a lot of hours to put together, so it’s a fair bit of work (and labor of love). As you probably noticed by looking below, I also take time to answer all the questions posted in the comments – and there’s quite a bit of detail in there as well.

I’ve partnered with Clever Training to offer all DC Rainmaker readers exclusive benefits on all products purchased. You can read more about the benefits of this partnership here. You can pick up the Fliiiight trainer through Clever Training using the links below. By doing so, you not only support the site (and all the work I do here) – but you also get to enjoy the significant partnership benefits that are just for DC Rainmaker readers. And, if your order ends up more than $49, you get free US shipping as well.

4iiii Fliiiight

And finally, here’s a handy list of accessories that most folks getting a trainer for the first time might not have already:

ProductAmazon LinkClever Training Link (Save 10% with DCR10BTF)Note
Basic Trainer MatThis is a super basic trainer mat, which is exactly what you'll see me use. All it does is stop sweat for getting places it shouldn't (it also helps with vibrations too).
Front Wheel Riser BlockHere's the thing, some people like front wheel blocks, some don't. I'm one of the ones that do. I like my front wheel to stay put and not aimlessly wiggle around. For $8, this solves that problem. Note some trainers do come with them. Also note, I use a riser block with *every* trainer.
Tacx Tablet Bike MountI've had this for years, and use it in places where I don't have a big screen or desk, but just an iPad or tablet on my road bike bars.

Thanks for reading! And as always, feel free to post comments or questions in the comments section below, I’ll be happy to try and answer them as quickly as possible.

DC Rainmaker:

View Comments (117)

  • Just received a mailer from 4iiii for the trainer and was wondering what the status was from users or Ray.
    Is this worth buying or waiting?

    • I bought a Fliiiight in the first release at the end of last year; I've not been disappointed. DCR's review didn't put me off completely and, in fact, was helpful in deciphering whether it might work for me - it does.

      However, I think it very much depends on your intended usage. I use it exclusively in erg mode, controlled by Golden Cheetah and it works just as I'd hoped.

      Caveats: I can imagine it's not great in sim mode; that's really because it is somewhat limited if you want to use easy gears and/or low cadence. To work really well, the rim, of your rear wheel, needs to be as true as possible and moving quickly. The truer the rim, the better this type of magnetic resistance system works. However, even with a perfectly true rim (in the real world let's say 0.1mm max deviation), the design is such that it works best with a high rim speed - this is why 4iiii recommend using it in the biggest gear possible and why it works very well in erg mode if you do (perhaps this is the best use of 10 or even 9t sprockets!). I don't think an FTP "guide" is at all useful for this trainer - it all depends on how you want to use it.

  • Hi Andrew, my Fliiiight just arrived and I've just done my first couple of rides and I'm noticing a couple of things that I'm wondering if you could advise me on. My wheels are Velocity A23s with Sapim CX-Rays and Hutchinson Sectors (tubeless).

    The first thing I noticed was inconsistency in resistance through a revolution of the cranks. I did notice in the control app that it was misreporting the number of spokes in the wheel, so after reading your FAQ I made a big flag out of yellow masking tape and replaced the spoke index with it, which seems to have gone some way to alleviating the problem. The app now always reports the correct number of spokes, but I'm still finding the pedal stroke inconsistent - at a certain point in the stroke it just sort of seems to drop, in a way that's not natural. I did read your comment that the algorithm rewards a consistent stroke, but my primary riding is on fixed gear so I would imagine that my pedal stroke is not too bad.

    The second thing I'm noticing is a fair bit of chatter of the magnet arrays against the rim at lower speeds - mostly when climbing in Zwift. I've aligned the arrays according to the procedure in your FAQ/videos, and I've also tried adjusting the motion limit outwards, but that hasn't helped. This issue is a bit frustrating not only because it's loud, but also because the magnet arrays actually contact the bike and make it shake. I'm not a particularly high-power rider so there are moments at high incline where the wheel will be moving slowly; I've tried keeping it in the big ring only but that's not always feasible depending on the terrain.

    Thanks for any insights you may be able to give. Looking forward to hearing from you!

  • 1 month ago I was completely sold on the fliiiight to become my first trainer. Today, however, I’m a bit skeptical in the sense of how is possible that the people at 4iiii reported up to 1100W, and suggested that Ray’s impressions may be due to an old firmware. Although a feasible reason, it seems that the new update helped Chris to increase the output power just marginally as he went from 209W on 24.12. to 227W on 25.12… quite far from the 265W with his fluid trainer, and with an FTP of 280, he hasn’t even reached his sweetspot yet.

    On the other had, why delivering the update to Chris only, when Ray accepted to use an update firmware, in order to analyze the behavior once again (unless the delivery of the update to Ray has already taken place, and he’s trying it out)

    All in all I think is a great product with a lot of people interested on it, and waiting for a positive development on the power performance and rod feeling.

    • Hi P929, you have some very valid points, and I'll do my best to expand on them. Regarding the messages with Chris, in personal emails he confirmed that the trainer was much better. I don't know that this post meant his maximum power was 227W, but rather just the average for the workout. I don't want to speak on his behalf though, but I believe he was much happier with the update. After the initial exchange with Chris, I did post an update link that can be used by any of our customers through Chrome browsers (again, Chrome on iOS is not compatible unfortunately, but the iOS app can perform the same firmware update). The link is: https://staczero.com/troubleshooting-beta I've also included an image from a TrainerRoad workout that was performed on a Vision Team 30 wheel with disc brakes. The workout peaked at around 560W at 90rpm (I was fading, you can see my cadence decrease throughout the interval).

      Regarding the update being sent to Ray as well, at this stage we're doing a few more steps to maximize the road feel, especially in Zwift. We have some internal releases that have been tested over the holidays, but we didn't feel it was an improvement over 3.7.0. We're hoping to release a 3.8 version fairly shortly, once everyone returns to the office from their holidays. To be respectful of Ray's time, we wanted to make sure that we had as many corrections applied as possible, rather than going back and forth multiple times. We're still happy to take any feedback in new revisions, but we were trying to solve as many concerns as we could with a single firmware release.

      At the moment, we are quite backordered due to the demand, so orders placed today won't be delivered immediately, but if you have any concerns, I would encourage you to either contact us, or wait until Ray has an update ready just to make sure that it takes care of what you're worried about. The last thing I would ever want is to try and prioritise sales over top of happy customers -- we want all of our users to be confident in their purchase!

  • Pre-ordered one of these and just tried it out today… I'll be going back to my fluid trainer + PowerTap hub setup. I'll try again when new firmware + Android is available. FTP is around 280 & I usually ride around 80 rpm. Tried to push for higher cadence with the Fliiight, but wasn't able to maintain it. Here are a couple rides for comparison:
    * Dec 21, 14mi on Zwift with fluid trainer + PowerTap hub: Avg Power 265W, best 5s Power 664W & Average cadence 65rpm https://www.strava.com/activities/2947551133
    * Dec 23, 38mi outside with PowerTap hub: Avg Power 248W, best 5s Power 840W & Average cadence 83 rpm https://www.strava.com/activities/2952235752
    * Dec 24, 10mi on Zwift with Fliiight: Avg Power 209W, best 5s Power 465W & Average cadence 83rpm https://www.strava.com/activities/2954048091

    • That's great news! I'm glad to hear that it was a positive change. We're happy to work in any feedback you have to new versions of the firmware as well. The physics of the trainer mean that it's highly dependent on the quality of the firmware, and thus our perception of what "good" is. While it has worked well for our legs, we know that other people have different preferences and requirements, so getting direct feedback is the only way that we can make improvements. We're happy to take your suggestions (and anyone else's!) into account for future revisions and refinements. I'm confident that the trainer will only continue to get better as we collect more of these requests and requirements from users, so I highly encourage users to email us with any feedback.

    • Chris, can you send me an email at andrew@staczero.com ? We can get a new experimental firmware out to you for testing. There's a pretty simple way to update the firmware for any device using Chrome, but we haven't officially released the new firmware for it quite yet. I would be curious to get your feedback on it.

  • Have a few question for stac or 4iiii people

    1. Other than having a better looking resistance magnets mechanism, is there any advantage of upgrading the halcyon?

    2. Does the halcyon have the same "limitations" to power as the fliiiight (target audience of 200w)?

    3. If I do change to fliiiight mechanism, would keeping the weight would improve feeling and would it help with power limitations?

    My power is not high (230w) but it's been trending up the last few months. Not sure if that would really really put me out of the target audience of the fliiiight, or if I will outgrow the halcyon sooner than anticipated.

    Anyway, thanks for any insight you guys could provide.

    • Hi Joel,

      The most significant improvement is the use of magnet motion to counteract the dead spots in the pedal stroke. This uses an optical sensor instead of the spoke magnet to sense wheelspeed, which unfortunately makes the wheel weights incompatible with the Fliiiight.

      I personally don't feel at all limited by usage of the trainer. My FTP is around 290W, and I have no trouble maintaining good road feel at a wide range of wattages (anywhere from 190-400 is my typical range, with sprints going up to 600-800W). This all comes down to personal preference though. We have a number of very high powered riders at the office who have no issues whatsoever using it. I suspect Ray's experience was tainted by old firmware, and I think we have these problems solved, but have not yet provided a full update to him yet.

  • First off---many kudos to powermetercity and Josh for the superfast service and shipping. But the unit sits unopened and will remain so until it ships back for refund. The quality of the wheel on your bike, as in ZERO ferrous metal in the rim perimeter even under the aluminum, is an insurmountable shortcoming. I could use it, if I were to spend another $400 for a suitable wheel and tire. But at that point I'm into it for nearly a grand. And, for me, it just ain't worth that.

    • These are excellent suggestions, JD.

      It's true that many riders do have alloy wheels, but it's also becoming increasingly common that riders only have carbon, which is an acknowledged challenge that we'll need to be able to adapt to. There are many wheels available now that satisfy the lower cost requirement, even with disc brakes. I can't recall where, but I believe I saw a full wheelset available for $180USD of the Vision Team 30 disc (both front and rear), and many Alexrims or Mavic Open Pro wheels are available for less than this. We are going to be looking at ways to roll a checklist out to some of our distributors and dealers, as well as work on the general education on the sales floor to alleviate this problem, but any feedback and suggestions are always welcome!

    • Perhaps 4iiii did not anticipate the range of riders interested in their smart trainer. I suspect most of us here have higher-end equipment like DCR. Our alloy "training wheels" could be considered extravagant by many recreational cyclists.

      I believe all you really need is a sleeve joint alloy rear wheel. A basic one can run as low as $100-$125 USD from eBay or bike shop and better ones (used) on Craigslist or from a bike club member.
      You could spends hundreds more to replace your wheelset with something nicer, but all you should need is an alloy replacement wheel (sleeve joint rim, not pinned), plus tools required to move your cassette. If you purchase from a bike shop they can move the cassette for you.

      How about a checklist sticker on the box and hang tag? Requirements: 1) std. spoked wheel, 2) non-ferrous alloy rim (sleeve joint, no pins), 3) tire without a wire bead, 4) supported wheel sizes: 26", 700c, 27.5", 5) Robert Axle Project Trainer Axle if thru axle, 6) what else?

    • We're going to continue working with distributors and dealers to make sure that the proper message is divested. When we were operating as STAC, we were able to add additional warnings and checkboxes to the website to prevent users from purchasing before they confirmed that there was no steel in the wheels. Now that we have other sales channels, it's harder to enforce that message. Your comment is extremely helpful in making sure that we get the information out to all potential customers.

  • I will move forward with 4iiii. I'd thought I might get more help here, but will follow up with them.

    I don't know how I can know what firmware vs it has since I can't get any of 4 phones to connect to it, and don't see an option to find this information within Zwift (the only thing that appears to connect to it).

    • Hi Sue,
      i had a similar problem on a Win 10 machine (& reported to 4iiii-support - but it's still holiday time). Was able to connect to the trainer, the controls did work (moving the arms & so on) but the firmware update stuck at 0% with the fliiiight unresponsive and the blue light off. Another try using an Android 8 device worked flawlessly, though. So i thought it was just something with my own Win 10 installation.

      Hope 4iiii-support (or STACs Andrew) can help you as soon as they return back to office there. I found them very friendly & helpful.

    • Whether on my windows 10 PC, or on a tablet running Android 7, the firmware update doesn't occur. Should the bluetooth light stay on for this? As soon as I select to start the update, the BT light on the Fliiiight goes out.

    • I don't understand anything in the link you shared, but I do have Windows 10 and the update feature isn't working for me.

    • Just a small note on that:
      One needs Windows 10 (7 or 8 won't work) or Android Version 6 or newer (5 won't work), see https://github.com/WebBluetoothCG/web-bluetooth/blob/master/implementation-status.md .

      This is, like the Location Services Permission, out of 4iiii's or STAC's control. It's just that Chrome won't support Bluetooth properly on the older systems. Take also note that there won't always be error messages (unless you open up the developer console).
      And yes, i learned this the hard way. Hope you don't. ;)

    • Hi Sue, for yourself and everyone else, I'll post the link for updating the firmware: https://staczero.com/troubleshooting-beta/
      The USB connections on the electronics are only for power, so unfortunately there's no way to provide a direct wired update. This link is not pretty (hence the "beta" in the link text), but should allow you to perform an update to 3.7.0. It's a bit slow with this protocol, so don't be surprised if it takes a few minutes to complete. This is typically done in the factory with a special programmer attachment for the wired connection, but it's not something that's commonly available to consumers, so that just leaves the "over the air" updates as a way to get things through. This link must be used in Chrome for Android, Windows or Mac, but will not work on Chrome for iOS. It can't be on any other browser, since it's a specific Chrome plugin. Also, you need to have a computer that is able to broadcast on BLE, so if you can connect a mouse or speakers, then you're probably good to go. Pretty much every Android phone should be compatible these days.

      We agree that it's frustrating about the location permissions being required to enable BLE access, but this is something that has been in place for Android for quite a while, and I think in the past 6 months iOS decided to follow suit (possibly with their new release and enhanced security/user privacy). It was a surprise for me initially, but when our developer explained the reasoning, I understood why it could be a giveaway for location.

      Hopefully this helps! Also, feel free to reach out to me at andrew@staczero.com with any support questions (or anyone else who is reading this at the moment!). I'll be checking email fairly regularly over the holidays, and I want to make sure that anyone who has received a Fliiiight for Christmas is able to get it up and running without hassle (or without having to wait until everyone is back in the office after the break).

    • Thank you for explaining the location access is beyond your control. I didn't know that before.

      I'll try pairing with the PC to look for a firmware update. Does that have to be by bluetooth? Or can I use the USB cable?

    • It may come down to permissions for the app to access bluetooth. As another comment pointed out, you need to have location services enabled in order for the app to be able to use the BLE radio. We've tested extensively through multiple generations of iPhones and Android devices, and haven't seen this before, so permissions/access is where I would start looking.

      If you are using Android, the STAC Control Panel app will successfully control the trainer in exactly the same way that the new app will, just with an older skin and less polish. Hope this helps!

    • My point is if you cannot pair to the native 4iiii app using either phone OS, the trainer is not working properly.
      There is no point attempting to use it with Zwift or any other app.
      You need ability to check the firmware and run other functions only available within the 4iiii app.
      When working properly it will pair to the 4iiii app where you can update the firmware and run other tests.
      The magnets should not contact the rim other than during initial calibration or perhaps an extreme effort at low rpm.
      My Halcyon just works (hop on and ride) but I only ride ERG. Looks like the Fliiiight has some new model issues.

    • We are working on a release of the Android app which should be updated by the end of January/early February. Firmware updates can actually be conducted directly from a Chrome browser on Mac/Windows or Android, but iOS devices must use the app for any updates.

      Location access is actually a requirement in order to access bluetooth for either Android or iOS, and well outside of our (or any developer's) control. This is due to the fact that many companies use bluetooth beacons to ping a phone when you're walking by a store, which can ultimately lead to identification of location. We've had this comment before, but sadly, bluetooth connection is predicated on permission of location access.

    • I appreciate you're aiming to be helpful, but surely we can agree the requirement to have a certain phone, or a friend with a certain phone, or shit - any phone at all, let alone the additional requirement of giving permission to access one's location - is pretty stupid for buying most things, let alone a stationary bike trainer.

    • If you know someone with an iPhone try could try installing the iOS app and pair on that.
      If you can't pair with either OS I suspect a return is necessary unless 4iiii support has a trick to reset the device.

  • Just received my unit. It's very easy to set up and put the bike on, as there's no assemble required. I turn on the power, and the trainer does its magic of moving the magnets. That's really cool! But the magnet sat oddly too much closer to the right of the rim. Well, maybe it will adjust itself? Nope. As I peddled, the rim would bang the magnets constantly. Maybe I placed the bike too much to the right side? So I tried re-centering it, placing the tires above the "4" mark, just like in the review photos, but had no luck. Maybe my wheel was banged too much on those city rides? That's okay, I have another bike newer and in a better condition to try it out!

    As I placed the newer other bike on it and turned it on, the magnets now decided to attach to the wheel, and did not distance themselves from it. So now the banging is gone, because they won't let the wheel go. They loooved those Fulcrum 6. So much that they simply don't move when I tell them to open up. They keep the same as if closed.

    Now I placed my old bike back and kept trying some different things, like opening and closing the magnets over the app. I only saw some improvement upon reducing the Erg Level to 90W on the app. The banging kept going, though, even if not at a such egregious intensity as before.

    This trainer was supposed to be small and foolproof enough to set up and fold on a daily basis in my tiny apartment, so my wife and I could keep in a decent shape over the winter. Now I see that this trainer is indeed simple, simply unusable.

    • All of my spoked wheels have steel spokes.
      Is it possible your Fulcrum wheel has a wire beaded tire mounted? That would explain a continuous magnet pull.
      A ride buddy has used my Halcyon without any issues and he has Fulcrum wheels, but I'm not sure which series.

    • Hi Andrew,

      Thanks for the additional info. Unfortunately, they are not very good news for me. I checked Fulcrum Racing 6's specs and it has steel spokes. After reading your post (an re-reading the whole comment section) I decided to check it out with a small magnet and I saw it sticking to both the spokes and the rim. So the Fulcrums are a no go. I did the same testing with the Alexrims and the magnet did not stick to spokes, nor the rim, until...it did on the opposite side of the stem valve.

      So that explains why the Fliiiight's magnets bit the Fulcrum and wouldn't let it go, whilst on the other rim the magnet would touch it at about every revolution. Neither set of wheels I have are compatible with the Fliiiight.

      I loved the Fliiiight's concept, as its small footprint when folded and light should be perfect for for small apartments like mine (I could just put it inside the box and slide it under my IKEA sofa!). But having to buy an extra rear wheel - and having to find a place to keep it - just defeats the purpose for which I ordered it in the first place.

    • There are a few things that may contribute to this, as some of the other comments had indicated.

      The first thing is that there can't be any steel in the wheel, which is absolutely crucial for proper operation. This can include both a steel pin (which is opposite the valve stem in 99% of cases), and/or a steel beaded tire, which has a slight attraction all the way around the wheel. This would cause the magnets to grab in place and hold there.

      The second contributor could be misalignment of the magnets and the wheel. This can happen due to a slight difference in alignment with some bikes/skewer combinations. The trainers are aligned at the factory, but every so often, there is a bike with a slightly different skewer/axle alignment. This will be visible if one tip of the magnets touches the rim first. This can easily be corrected using the provide 3mm and 4mm allen keys, and following the instructions on the online user guide.

      Failing this, a new firmware update will help find the wheel more accurately, so that the software knows to "stay away" from the wheel location. Our developer has made significant improvements to this recently, so updating to 3.7.0 will help quite a bit.

      Usage wise, we always recommend staying in the gear that provides the fastest wheelspeed for ERG mode. This allows the magnets to stay furthest from the wheel, and provides the best road feel.

      When following all of these steps, the trainer is easily able to provide a significant amount of resistance without contacting the wheel. In a recent ride, I was able to hold 600W at 70rpm without any kind of contact or noise.

      Since it is such a different method of generating resistance, there is a bit of a learning curve to using it, but we've had feedback from many customers who initially had issues, but then end up loving it once they follow these steps.

      I hope this information helps yourself and others!

    • Hi JD, thanks for your comments.

      Yes, the magnets were aligned with the rim. No issues there. I didn't try pedaling at a faster, harder, gears because I was afraid of damaging both/either of my wheels and the trainer. Are you suggesting that going harder may solve the issue?

      I sent 4iiii describing the issues. I hope this is a firmware problem, but we'll see.

    • Magnets get aligned on rim not tire. Rim must be non-ferrous. Ditto with tire (no wire bead). Should ride in top gear for sufficient wheel speed.
      I rarely fold my Halcyon except when traveling but I routinely dismount/mount my bike on a weekly basis (in less than a minute) using non-drive adjuster only.
      Did you contact 4iiii support?

  • In my experience, the unit doesn't work at all. When turned on, the arms do the initial movement. After that, nothing. It supplies no resistance of any kind.
    The 4iiii android ap installed on 4 different devices won't pair to it (find = yes, pair = no), though Fliiiight's blue light is in steady mode which website says is ready to pair. All devices were cycled into / out of airplane mode. Like I said, the ap finds the device but only endlessly "searches" for the connection. (Yes, location is enabled).
    Zwift on PC with ant+ (a setup that works fine with my Snap) finds the Fliiiight as a PM and a Controllable Trainer, however the game picks up no signal from the Fliiiight (my avatar won't move). Instead, pairing my Quark with Zwift, my avatar moves but the still paired Fliiiight controllable trainer provides zero resistance.
    Wheel passes magnet test. Device magnets appear to be suitably aligned.
    Can anyone offer a solution or do I just box it up for a return? And does anyone know how to get free return shipping on a faulty item?

    • Sue, sorry to hear about the issues that have been occurring for you up to now. Please contact me at andrew@staczero.com (not sure if the address will be obfuscated by the comments, so in writing this, I don't know what it will look like).

      I'll do what I can to get you up and running over the holidays, since I don't want to see anyone stuck in the position where they can't use the equipment that we provided.

    • I didn't test the trainer on Zwift, but only on the 4iiii app, which by standard works on ERG mode at about 200W resistance (forgot how much watts it was and I'm not taking out of the box to pair and check), and had the same problem. The contact to the rim to the magnets, however, seemed to be more intense in my case (I'd hear that awful sound every 1 second or so), so I didn't dare riding for more than one minute. I guess it was worse for me because of the higher resistance on ERG mode?

      A few comments above I saw Andrew saying that 4iiii was going to tune the firmware to increase resistance, so maybe that's the issue?

    • It seems the fatal error I'd made was having more than 1 reflective thingie on my spokes. Solving that...
      I was able to get the trainer to provide some resistance in Zwift (via Windows PC). At the Zwift default 50% trainer setting, a 1% grade in Zwift led to some contact with one side of the rim; the 3% grade led to significant contact on both sides of the rim that pulsed between bad to worse when I changed my pedal speed. For the initial 0% grade "on the beach" where I'd dropped into Watopia, the trainer pulsed without grabbing the wheel, with the 'road feel' being like biking over mud (normal resistance, then slip, repeat).

      I stopped pedaling to check my wheel after the significant contact (rim was pretty warm ~10 min into riding), and on restarting the trainer didn't register in Zwift any more. I turned the trainer off, swapped bikes to test a different wheel, then re-paired, which got Zwift to recognize my pedaling again, but the magnets still scrapped both sides of the wheel so I gave up.

      I'm in a holding pattern since 4iiii is closed until Jan 02. It doesn't matter what their target FTP market is, this is unacceptable performance.

    • The 4iiii app should allow you to check firmware version and test all functions.
      Did you file a support request with 4iiii?

  • Would this be a good option for an older couple just getting into cycling? Since the Plantar Faclitis has reared it's ugly head running has become less and less fun. So we want to try cycling. I want to ride indoors during the colder months and really like the non-contact resistance. Neither of us are powerful riders and just want something fun, easy to use, reliable, and quiet. Thanks

    • OK....so because I put the cart before the horse none of my wheels are compatible. And yes...I did order before I checked. I knew I had 2 aluminum wheels and one alloy wheel. I was thinking at LEAST one of those would be suitable. But no.....the aluminum wheels are pinned and the alloy has a band. And 2 of the local bike shops were no help. One did have a suitable wheel set but it was $2000.
      So unless I can get a suitable 26" wheel I may not even get a chance to try it:-(
      If anyone can help........a 26 is preferrable but a 27.5 would work too.

    • The Xert app on your smartphone will update the firmware on the trainer whenever a new release is made available.
      I initially purchased a STAC Zero Halcyon as a second trainer for summertime travel. Now it's the only trainer I use. My Hammer is gathering dust and will soon be sold. The Hammer is a great trainer and was my go-to for Zwift before I grew tired of the 3D simulations and their ERG library/methodology was ho-hum. Now my Halcyon + Xert does everything I need. YMMV. Have a nice fliiiight. :)

    • I'll give it a go. Placed an order from Power Meter City yesterday. I'm assuming that any software updates will be available for download and install by the user? But what about firmware updates? If new components are developed or modified, such as those you say are in the works at present, will I need to purchase those?
      I am looking forward to it. My power will increase but I'll never be 30 again. But I'm thinking that 4iiii will continue to grow and improve the experience. And that may be fun to be part of. The new bike will be here tomorrow so hopefully, by years end, I will be back here with a report. Cheers!

    • Personally, I think it's very applicable, but that's obviously a biased opinion.

      Taking a step back and relying purely on the advice and recommendations from Ray, your use case would be very applicable. With my insider knowledge, I also know that we have some new firmware developments that will allow us to increase maximum resistance and provide a smoother ride at high power, which is ultimately the name of the game. As we get feedback from users, we're rapidly improving the code for a better and better ride!

1 2 3 4

By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to the use of cookies